Tags: Art, Couture, Designers, Fall/Winter 2013, Fashion Week, Paris, Photography, Vogue
Collectively, both the fashion and art worlds are about the new and the next. When artists and designers show work that is considered groundbreaking by modern day standards, the question is, is it truly something that either industry hasn’t seen before? Looking at the most recent Paris collections from a beauty standpoint, the hair at Givenchy (pictured below) immediately caught my eye. The helmet-like ringlets compressed to the models’ heads and then spray-painted was a fresh take on beauty that could only be the product of an innovative mind like Ricardo Tisci. As I took a closer look at the backstage shots, the hair began looking more and more like dried, shriveled up flowers. Seeing, instead, a bouquet atop each head took me back to the golden age of magazine covers.
Right around the time of the Second World War and during the heyday of Surrealism, Salavdor Dali was accepted as a great talent not only in the art community but the fashion world. In addition to his close relationship with designer Elsa Schiaparelli and his collection of surrealist jewels (previously featured here), he guest edited a few, select issues of Vogue. His art appeared on covers, including the June 1939 issue (above, left), which depicts a woman jumping rope in the background and a girl sitting with a flower bouquet for a head in the foreground.
Fast-forward to the iconic Louise Dahl Wolfe photograph of Ivy Nicholson on the April 1958 cover of Harper’s Bazaar (above, center) featuring Nicholson with a flower-like helmet. This image was clearly inspired by Dali’s cover and subsequently influenced countless fashion photographs in the later years; most recently, Elle Fanning’s cover of New York Magazine’s Spring 2013 fashion issue, photographed by Will Cotton (above, right).
Givenchy Fall/Winter 2013
In addition to the photograph’s influence on Givenchy’s fall show, these same flower-like ringlets also made their way onto the McQueen runway, under Sarah Burton’s ornate crowns (pictured below).
This wasn’t, however, the first time the celebrated Dahl-Wolfe photo has been referenced, who could forget John Galliano’s floral-inspired penultimate couture collection for Christian Dior. For fall/winter 2010 Galliano sent floral looks down the runway, accompanied by petal-inspired hairpieces (pictured below), a subtle ode to Dahl-Wolfe.
Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2010 Couture
Similarly, in Karl Lagerfeld’s spring/summer 2009 Chanel couture show (previously referenced here, pictured below), models wore paper flowers atop their heads, morphing from delicate tiaras into floral hats and a flower helmet – worn by Feja, Karl’s bride for the season, in place of a veil.
Lastly, milliner Philip Treacy took a cue from Dahl-Wolfe and created a floral helmet (pictured below), which was most recently worn by Lady Gaga (for a bit of pop culture).
Happy September to all! It feels good to be home after an incredibly extensive two-week hiatus/vacation. As is the case every August, I made an end-of-the-summer journey to Europe with my family and roughly 25 pounds of magazines. In years past I’ve traveled both ways with the added weight but this trip, on account of a majority of the publications reaching record numbers, I decided to forego bringing them home and instead have a little fun of my own. Though there were plenty of editorials to look at and stories to read, the amount of ad pages was overwhelming. To get a visual understanding of the ratio of ads to editorials, I enlisted the help of my friend Maggie and after five hours of cutting, tearing, sorting, stacking and counting our work was done. The photographs show editorial pages on the left and advertisements on the right for six leading publications. While there was a point when I thought I was over September, my excitement soon returned after realizing I would have W and V waiting for me at home and a few European magazines still left to purchase.
Despite my plan to focus my MET post around where the party really happens – which, oddly enough, is typically in the bathroom – the museum finally caught on and placed guards in both restrooms this year. It was a relief to not have to walk through plumes of smoke and navigate around the likes of Ricardo Tisci and Giambattista Valli in the ladies room, but nevertheless not as entertaining. Regardless, the party still lived up to its reputation as Party of the Year. Impossible Conversations is a complete departure from the dramatic aesthetic of last year’s Savage Beauty exhibit. It always excites me to learn more about somewhat mysterious designers, like Schiaparelli, especially when using such a celebrated female, such as Miuccia Prada, as a basis for comparison. The exhibition is geared towards those who love and appreciate both current fashion and its history. More to come on specifics of the exhibit but for now check out some highlights from Monday evening below…
In honor of Target’s newest wave of collaborations Vogue hosted a small tea last Thursday with the three designers; milliner Albertus Swanepoel, jewelry designer Dana Kellin and women’s designer Josie Natori. The three collections hit Target stores on October 30th and will be available until late December… Assuming everything isn’t sold out by then!
Dana Kellin’s collection for Target consists of earrings and necklaces with stones in two different color ways; warm pinks and purples, and colder blues and greens. The pieces are all under $50 and perfect for layering, take a look…
Lastly, Josie Natori’s 30 piece collection is so colorful and incredibly lush. The sleepwear and lingerie will be available in two shipments, one on October 30th and the second before Valentines Day… So yummy!
While September issues are often celebrated as the markers of the New Year in fashion, they are equally as renowned due to their gigantic size. Unlike certain people who instantly tear the magazines in half, maybe missing the editor’s letter but mainly just hundreds of advertisements, I like to keep mine completely intact for my archive. Yes, it’s annoying to flip through, probably, thousands of the same ads by the time I’ve finished my September haul, but I find it in some ways ‘cheating’ if you don’t. This year, however, I decided to take a new approach when reading and not only look at the ads, but embrace them. There were some great editorials in the 15+ September issues I purchased, but I feel I got to know the new collections best after dismantling a few magazines and putting together a spread using some of my favorite looks from the Fall 2011 campaigns.
Below is footage of Florence and the Machine’s, or as my mom says: Frances and the Mechanic’s, performance at the MET Gala. She only did three songs but Dog Days Are Over was by far the best. The start of the film is a bit shaky (she was running around everywhere!) but hopefully you can get a good glimpse of Florence Welch’s amazing McQueen caftan and her equally incredible voice.
Tags: Alexander McQueen, Daphne Guinness, Designers, MET Gala, Vogue
I’m sorry to have been so MIA lately, but I’m back! For those of you who haven’t yet seen Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty at the MET, here is a video of the exhibit taken the night of the Gala. You will notice some of the pieces Andrew Bolton, Curator at The Costume Institute, highlighted in my interview with him; such as McQueen’s famous bumster trouser, Daphne Guinness’ donated pieces that belonged to Isabella Blow, and Shalom Harlow’s finale dress from McQueen’s No.13 show. I tried to get good footage that night but it is hard to tell Yoko Ono or Valentino to move out of the frame! Hope you can get a sense of how amazing the exhibition is. I still highly recommend you see it in person if you are in New York between now and August 7th. Enjoy!
So sorry for the delay with my MET coverage!! Here are some pics -and by some, I mean a bunch- from the night. I am still editing the footage but will have the exhibit to you this week. Has anyone gone yet?? If not, it’s a must for anyone in NYC!
With my sister, friend and jewelry designer Eddie Borgo, and his date for the night, model Arizona Muse
Ok, so aside from the amazingness that was the entire McQueen exhibit/MET Gala, I must say that the highlight of the evening came at the end. Riccardo Tisci is one of my top three favorite living designers and I have never before had the pleasure of meeting him. I couldn’t pass up the opportunity of asking for a picture as we were exiting the MET. I had to squeeze onto my purse to prevent my hands from shaking… But it was well worth it. I don’t look too happy, do I??
In honor of my countdown to the 2011 MET Gala, which is a week from tomorrow, below is the final installment of Lady Gaga’s performance from last year’s party. My mom and I have already started making predictions for who we think Ms. Wintour has deemed worthy enough to serve as entertainment this year; I say Florence + The Machine while my mom is thinking Katy Perry… Who do you think?? We shall find out next Monday!
Here are two of the final videos in the Lady Gaga MET series… Unfortunately there is only one more to follow but I think it is truly the best of her four song set. These are two clips that she did on the piano. The first was her classic speech where she made an inappropriate comment that I’m sure Ms. Wintour wasn’t too happy with. But she redeemed herself by truly preforming above and beyond anyones expectations. The second clip is of her doing a rendition of speechless. Whether you are a Gaga fan or not, you have to admit, she’s talented.