Tags: Alexander McQueen, Art, Designers, Fashion Week, Inspiration, Photography, Retail
While Georgia O’Keeffe may have pioneered deer-art, so to speak, artists and fashion designers alike have been embracing the woodsy animal for a few seasons now. An ode to deer can be seen on the runways of McQueen dating back to the mid-nineties and have continued through to today – mainly in the world of accessory design. Artists from Japanese sculptor Kohei Nawa and sculptor Sherrie Levine to photographer Ryan McGinley have taken notice and featured the rustic animal in their respective mediums.
I have recently fallen for the work of Ryan McGinley. Although I think his use of color and natural light is what makes his photographs so stunning, there was something about this black and white (pictured below) that captured my attention. Maybe it is the simplicity of the image or the striking resemblance – in the most flattering way – between India and the fawn. Beautiful.
McGinley even cast Bambi to star alongside Sigrid Agren in his F/W 2009 ad campaign for Stella McCartney (pictured below).
Artist Sherrie Levine featured the skulls of two related animals – a steer and an antelope – in her series of skulls cast in bronze, while jewelry designer Aurélie Bidermann accomplished a similar look – for one of my favorite pieces in her collection – using a taurus head.
From Left: Steer Skull, Horned, 2002 by Sherrie Levine – Aurélie Bidermann’s Wild West Taurus Ring – Antelope Skull, 2006 by Sherrie Levine
Alexander McQueen was a longtime patron of deer and antlers. He first paid homage to the animal by way of a Phillip Tracy headpiece in his F/W 1996-97 collection, Dante. Then, for F/W 1997-98, he sent out a horn-blazer in It’s a Jungle Out There and almost ten years later, for F/W 2006-07, one of his most celebrate looks from Widows of Culloden was an entirely lace and ruffle gown complete with a veil held in place by antlers (all pictured below).
My love of deer this season can in large part be attributed to the seven bags below. Proenza Shouler, Lanvin and Alexander Wang all utilized the unique, sometimes spotted fur in their FW 2012 accessory collections. It is hard to choose a favorite although I have had my sights set on the black clutch by Proenza since first spotting furry the beauty in Barneys.
1. Proenza Schouler’s Large Chieko Gazelle Clutch
2. Proenza Schouler’s Large Chieko Deer Clutch
3. Proenza Schouler’s Large Chieko Gazelle Clutch
4. Lanvin’s Patchwork Shearling East/West Folding Bag
5. Alexander Wang’s Pelican Calf Hair Clutch Bag
6. Alexander Wang’s Pelican Natural Deer Hair Clutch Bag
7. Proenza Schouler’s Akira Gazelle Bowler Bag
Thursday evening marked Bergdorf Goodman’s one-hundred-and-eleventh anniversary soirée. Today, Bergdorf’s is thought of as more than a retail store. When it came to honoring their past 111 years of ruling luxury in New York City, BG chose to celebrate at another iconic New York venue, The Plaza – the same place, in fact, that their fiftieth anniversary party was held sixty one years ago. While a lot has changed since its founding in 1901, The Bergdorf’s institution still lays claim to some of the most valuable real estate in New York City, with iconic windows spanning an entire city block on 5th avenue. The unveiling of their much-anticipated holiday windows is just a few weeks away, but I am hoping their over-the-top fete was an indication of the extravagance that is to come next month. The party was filled with Bergdrof’s friends, family, local and global vendors, models, celebrities, artists and everyone in between. As if my never-ending instagrams were not enough, see some of my additional photos from the perfect night of celebrating fashion!
Atelier Swarovski by Michael Kaplan – Spring/Summer 2011
In keeping with Swarovski’s century-long tradition of couture collaborations, in 2007 the House of Swarovski launched Atelier Swarovski. Atelier Swarovski is a luxury crystal accessories collection that partners with a new set of forward-thinking designers, artists and architects each season to each create a limited edition Atelier Swarovski capsule collection. Each season offers a variety of styles at a range of prices all in keeping with the individual designer’s aesthetic. You can shop the current collection online and see my favorite pieces from the last four seasons above and below.
Renowned costume designer Michael Kaplan is to thank for some of contemporary cinema’s most iconic characters. Kaplan has worked on films such as Blade Runner and Fight Club (both pictured above) among many others, and has partnered with Atelier Swarovski on a capsule jewelry collection. For Spring/Summer 2011 Kaplan turned to science fiction and fantasy for inspiration to create cut crystal and metalwork pieces (pictured above).
Arik Levy for Atelier Swarovski – Autumn/Winter 2011
Designer, artist, architect and filmmaker Arik Levy worked with Atelier Swarovski on a set of pieces for Autumn/Winter 2011. Levy’s multidimensional skill set and artistic style led him to create a ‘RockCrater’ collection that explored the natural world through jewelry with exposed crystal-encrusted interiors.
Atelier Swarovski by Zaldy – Spring/Summer 2012
Famed costume designer Zaldy has worked with the likes of Lady Gaga, Michael Jackson, Mick Jagger and the Scissor Sisters and has designed two collections with Atelier Swarovski. His first, for Spring/Summer 2012, focused on the form of dynamic concave and convex shapes all made of baguette crystals.
Atelier Swarovski by Greg Lynn – Autumn/Winter 2012
Architect Greg Lynn worked with Atelier Swarovski on their most recent set of collaborations for Autumn/Winter 2012. He is celebrated for breaking boundaries through unconventional architectural figures and his debut jewelry collection plays with the idea of old and new, setting clusters of raw stones in smooth, contoured forms.
Atelier Swarovski by Hariri & Hariri – Autumn/Winter 2012
Architects Hariri & Hariri’s sensual modernism aesthetic has been celebrated through their conceptual, residential, commercial and institutional projects but never before through jewelry. Their Parametric Collection for Atelier Swarovski plays with the relationship of nature and technology similar to their architectural designs; you will find countless similar shapes and lines when comparing the two.
Atelier Swarovski by Kostas Murkudis – Autumn/Winter 2012
Designer Kostas Murkudis designs for an edgy, sophisticated woman. For Autumn/Winter 2012 his use of bullet shape settings serves as the perfect contrast to the beautiful colored crystals and beads to offer a hard, feminine feel.
Then (2002) and Now (Photo by Nicolas Guevara)
Before Riccardo Tisci launched the massively successful Great White-T at Givenchy I was rocking sea creature-inspired t-shirts from my local aquarium. Yes, that blonde bombshell in the upper left hand photo is Minnie Muse circa 2002, just moments after putting the final staple into my very own homemade hammerhead. Just recently did I trade in the massive six-foot long paper shark sculpture for a more manageable pair of Givenchy’s Shark Lock Fold Over Wedge Boots. I am proud to say my love of sharks dates back to the late 90s, even before Tisci made Great Whites the ‘it’ animal for fall.
The fact of the matter is that as of late it seems both the art and fashion worlds alike have been bitten by a Great White. While Damien Hirst’s 1991 work The Physical Impossibility of Death in the Mind of Someone Living (pictured below) featuring a 14-foot Tiger Shark preserved in formaldehyde may be historically the most celebrated example of ‘shark art’ countless other artists have explored the underwater creatures since.
In 2003, towards the end of François-Xavier Lalanne’s life, the famous French duo, Les Lalanne, unveiled a collection of painted bronze sharks ranging in size from petite to life size (pictured above). The world of street art is not missing out either thanks to the work of cantstopgoodboy. The California-based artist has adapted his acrylic and mixed media techniques in a series of shark-driven works (pictured below). Lastly, New York-based artist Cordy Ryman’s work Shark Fin Soup (pictured two below) is amongst the lot of works being auctioned off at Dallas’ 2×2 for Aids and Art benefit in October.
Shark Attack !@#$ (1) and Shark Attack !@#$ (2) by cantstopgoodboy
Although Givenchy spearheaded the shark-trend in fashion, countless other ready-to-wear and accessory designers have turned to these same sea dwellers for inspiration. Check out my shark-inspired must haves below…
1. Petite Fin Stud Earrings by Dezso by Sarah Beltran
2. Single Shark’s Tooth Necklace and Multi-Shark’s Tooth Necklace both by Aurélie Bidermann
3. Bear Trap Bangle by Eddie Borgo
4. Shark’s Teeth Skull Ring by Alexander McQueen
5. Shark-print Sweatshirt by Givenchy
6. Gold Nophobia Double Bite Shark Tooth Cuff by Tom Binns
7. Gold Shark’s Tooth Pendant Necklace and Black Ponyhair Mini Shark’s Tooth Pendant Necklace both by Givenchy
8. Shark Teeth Skull-Clasp Clutch by Alexander McQueen
9. Gold Baby Shark Tooth Necklace by Dezso by Sarah Beltran
10. Shark Tooth Tanzanite Earrings by Dezso by Sarah Beltran
11. Large Shark Tooth Closure Shoulder Bag by Givenchy
12. Brown Shark Lock Leather Bracelet and Orange Shark Lock Leather Bracelet both by Givenchy
13. Bronze Shark Teeth Print Shirt by Paul Smith
Greetings from France! It feels amazing to be in such serenity, regardless that our annual voyage overseas means the end of summer is near. Amidst yesterday’s packing madness, I stumbled upon photography gold. Yes, that is the Jordan clan above circa 1993 in full denim glory; that would be me in front as a tiny, little thing being held up by my grandpa. I’d love to say this is how we dressed every evening in the 90s, but truthfully we were all in costume for my parents’ Country Western Party.
I was surprised to find the above photos and learn that Mary-Kate and Ashley’s How The West Was Fun was not my primary introduction to western wear. Looking back, all I can think about is that if we had a horse we would be the perfect stand-ins for Laurie Simmon’s 1979 Cowboys series (pictured below).
The fact of the matter is that everyone loves hoedown apparel. Whether it be the Jeremy Scott number that Leigh Lezark wore to Derek Blasberg’s 30th Birthday – I feel a bit odd knowing the amount I do about that party, thanks to Mr.Blasberg himself who wrote features for a few publications – or Jean Paul Gaultier’s SS06 collection shown in his hay-filled atelier, each season someone, somewhere toys with western/farm/hoedown inspiration. To this day, no show has measured up to Chanel’s SS10 Farm Collection, but for AW12 it was Isabel Marant’s turn to have a go. While I wasn’t initially a fan, I have warmed up to certain pieces as they begin to trickle into online retailers. Thanks to Net-a-Porter I find myself developing a hunger for one of her suede, fringe coats or a new pair of trusty Marant boots. Continue checking Net-a-Porter for the latest Fall pieces from Isabel Marant and more… Happy shopping!
I’ve been getting my LONDON ON with all of the Olympic fever as of late. This constant talk of competition got me thinking of which Londoners would win the fashion Olympics for best artistic inspiration. It was a close call and after many heats here is who came out on top.
The gold goes to newbie British menswear designer Joseph Turvey. I was first introduced to Turvey’s work just days ago in THIS Style.com feature. I am usually not drawn to clothing sporting massive faces, often thinking they serve as a distraction more than anything, but there in an innocence in these sketches pictured above that I love – I am particularly eyeing the backpack. All of Turvey’s sketches bear striking similarities to my favorite portrait artist, German-born photographer Thomas Ruff. Ruff’s subjects prove awkwardness can absolutely be beautiful. One day I dream of displaying one of these wonderfully uncomfortable shots in my home but until then, a Turvey piece hanging in my closet will be just fine.
Coming in a close second is Mary Katrantzou for her amazing Candida Höfer-inspired dresses. Although Katrantzou has been around for a few seasons now, I can still remember first spotting her wildly whimsical pieces at Colette a few years back. To date, her dining room series is still my favorite, but no matter what theme each season brings there is always an ode to Höfer’s symmetrical prints. Höfer is a German-based photographer known for her works of elaborate interiors. Both women’s use of balanced lines, depth and color make them the perfect European pair.
Just behind Turvey and Katrantzou is fellow Brit J.W. Anderson with the bronze. Anderson’s mod pre-fall collection must find a place in everyone’s autumn wardrobe, particularly those amazing sweaters of his. Everything from the colors to the clean lines in his color-blocking reminds me of the work of yet another Berlin-born artist, Daniel Pflumm. Pflumm’s minimalist light-boxes are part of his Censored Logo series produced in the late 90s. These pieces challenge the authority of corporate identity just as Anderson’s simple designs prove that chic needs no logo.
Shop J.W. Anderson on Net-a-Porter.
After spending the weekend in Chicago for Lollapalooza it was nice to return home from a hiatus to find my feature up on Barney’s blog The Window. It was such fun being able to contribute to one of my favorite blogs. Click here to access the full feature, and here to shop all my fall favorites and more on Barneys.com!
I can still recall almost ten years ago when Louis Vuitton’s now flagship store on the Champs-Elysées was, at the time, a massive monogram trunk. A part of me was hoping the LV panels would never come down but since the store’s opening, countless other fashion houses have hopped on the designer scaffolding bandwagon. We now live in an age where there is as much talk about the outside of a store under construction as what is opening in the space. Take the recent dropping of Yves to just Saint Laurent at the brand’s future Mercer storefront which has garnered nearly as must buzz as Heid’s much anticipated debut runway collection. But alas, Tiffany has revolutionized the world of scaffolding once again in the weeks leading up to their long awaited return to Soho; the neighborhood where the brand began almost 175 years ago.
Rather than shielding their new store from the public by way of a massive Tiffany Blue box, the luxury brand has taken an even more artistic approach to construction. Tiffany has partnered with four contemporary artists to decorate the outside of the storefront prior to their September opening. Each artist has been given the theme True Love as inspiration as well as two weeks to install and show how they interpret the meaning of love. Danielle Dimston was the first to show on July 16th and Ellis Gallagher came shortly after on July 27th. Gallagher’s work is still on display but will be replaced on August 8th by Danny Roberts and the final artist in the rotation is Natasha Law on August 17th. Head to Tiffany Soho – 97 Greene Street – to see it all in person and maybe catch a glimpse of an artist in action.
It is no secret I am a huge fan of Rei Kawakubo and the entire Comme des Garçons empire. Her FW12 collection was nothing short of perfection so imagine my excitement when discovering this weekend that a few pieces, like the looks shown above, are now available for purchase on Barneys New York.com!
Rei is so inspiring, in large part, because of her artistic vision. Comme has worked with incredible artists in the past like Ai Weiwei, Eli Sudbrack, Quay Brothers, and Cindy Sherman (pictured below), yet Kawakubo’s most celebrated collaboration to date came with the launch of PLAY by Comme des Garçons in 2002.
Thanks to artist Filip Pagowski’s logo, PLAY has amassed a cult-like following similar to that of Polo circa the 1980’s. The small street-wear line has grown immensely in the past decade, making it increasingly difficult to find a piece in my closet without two perfectly inward-slanting eyes.
I typically loathe a logo, preferring my clothes to only reveal their make on the inside tag, but, there is something about Pagowski’s whimsical design granting it an exception. I am a bit of a striped shirt snob and since discovering the perfectly aligned horizontal pattern on Kawakubo’s shirts I have hardly looked back. Find my favorite striped top and all the PLAY basics (shown below) on Farfetch.com.
It was great fun to flip through The Gunter Sachs Collection catalogue a few weeks ago before the lot was actioned in late May by Sotheby’s London. Sachs, who was known as a playboy, had a sizably amount of erotic art to match his reputation. The sale well exceeded expectations (fetching over 56 million dollars) and three of the biggest surprises of the evening ended up being three of my favorite pieces. The Allen Jones works (shown above) were expected to garner around sixty thousand dollars a piece when in actuality they sold for 1.32 million, 1.23 million and 1.53 million dollars, respectively. Each work was an addition of six total that the artist made in 1969. I had known little about Jones prior to seeing the Sachs collection and I wasn’t an immediate fan, but after imagining the pieces scattered around Peter Marino’s office or in the film A Clockwork Orange they quickly grew on me.
I really hope a magazine that next profiles Peter Marino (possibly for his upcoming documentary set to be released in 2013) will use Jones’ work as inspiration for a shoot; I’d love to see the world’s greatest architect mimicking the the sculptures in his entirely leather ensemble. All the talk of Peter and his uniform got me thinking of which leather pieces I am most excited to bring out once the weather cools. I came up with a few, below, that will be wardrobe staples come September.
1. Rick Owens and Junya Watanabe are the two masters of leather. Rick’s classic black leather jacket is the first piece I take out in the fall and the last to get put away come summer.
2. I have worn Alexander Wang’s black velvet backpack for two years now and I hope to soon add The Row’s leather backpack to my collection.
3. There’s nothing wrong with a woman in men’s clothes. This Givenchy jacket is the perfect example of a piece made for either sex.
4. I am not typically a fan of Louboutin’s unless it is a clean black leather pump, which he does so well.
5. Lanvin’s perfect long leather gloves.
6. The Row’s black pencil skirt is number one on my wish-list for fall.
7. Shorts give you the perfect excuse to wear leather even when the weather is still warm, this pair is by Alexander Aang.
8. Alexander Wang’s chic leather answer to a ski jacket.
9. The perfect clutch for fall, by Alexander Wang.
10. Givenchy’s long leather gloves with pony hair detailing are perfect for day.
11. These leather shorts, by Haute Hippie, are another solution for the warm weather.
12. The Row’s leather sleeveless top can be worn alone or will be great with a top underneath come winter.
13. Finally, the reason why I am so excited for fall, Givenchy’s black leather shark tooth boot.