Dior Spring/Summer 2014

I have returned to blogging with one of my favorite posts from last season – The Art of… A Runway Show. The spring/summer 2014 collections were filled with art references both in looks presented and the runway backdrops. Christian Dior, once again, makes the list thanks to Raf Simon’s enchanted secret garden with flowers hanging in a Hew Locke-fashion. Hedi Slimane brightened up the Saint Laurent runway with a series of suspended light sculptures similar in style to the work of artist Ivan Navarro. Dries Van Noten and Rodarte paid homage to my two favorite minimalists, Donald Judd and Dan Flavin, respectively. Dries lined his runway with a series of Judd-esque Stacks while Kate and Laura took a cue from their spring/summer 2013 show and scattered the runway, yet again, with Flavin’s neon light beams. Ricardo Tisci staged a car crash on the Givenchy runway similar to the work Short Cut, 2003, by Elmgreen and Dragset. Above the runway at Chloe hung a single gold inverted plate almost identical to Untitled, 2012, by Anish Kapoor while photos from Anya Hindmarch’s Cirque du Soleil-inspired show resembled James Rosenquist’s Multiple Universe works from 2012. Both Alexander Wang and Felipe Oliveira Baptista for Lacoste created backdrops mimicking Sol Lewitt’s Costruzione Cubica, 1971.

Lastly, this wouldn’t be a proper spring/summer 2014 art and fashion post without mentioning Prada and Chanel. This season Miuccia Prada commissioned street artists and illustrators to provide designs for the both the clothing and accessories as well as runway backdrop for Prada while at Chanel Karl Lagerfeld constructed his very own high fashion art gallery within the walls of the Grand Palais.

Excited to see who chooses an artistic setting to compliment the fall/winter 2014 collections in the weeks to come!

Left: Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2014 and Right: artwork by Hew Locke

Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2014

Work by Ivan Navarro

Left: Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2014 and Right: work by Donald Judd

Left: Rodarte Spring/Summer 2014 and Right: work by Dan Flavin

Right: Givenchy Spring/Summer 2014 and Right: Short Cut, 2003 by Elmgreen and Dragset

Left: Chloe Spring/Summer 2014 and Right: Untitled, 2012, by Anish Kapoor

Left and Right: Anya Hindmarch Spring/Summer 2014 and Middle: James Rosenquist, 2012

Left: Alexander Wang Spring/Summer 2014 and Right: Lacoste Spring/Summer 2014

Sol Lewitt, Costruzione Cubica, 1971

Prada Spring/Summer 2014

Chanel Spring/Summer 2014

Dior Fall/Winter 2013

August is underway meaning that any day now September fashion issues the size of telephone books will be hitting newsstands. Last year I shed light on editorial content vs. ad pages and, while I can imagine 2013 will be much of the same, something excites me about what I have seen thus far on the fall/winter ad circuit. More designers have taken inspiration from art for their latest set of campaigns.

For starters, Inez and Vinoodh captured Raf Simmons’ fall 2013 collection for Dior and one image in particular (pictured above) was a direct reference to Edouard Manet’s 1863 masterpiece, Luncheon on the Grass (below).

Edouard Manet, Luncheon on the Grass, 1863

While Dior took inspiration from the past, at KENZO, Carol Lim and Huberto Leon enlisted the help of present-day artist Maurizio Cattelan to think up a fantastic, surrealist-inspired campaign.

Left: Maurizio Cattelan’s highline billboard and Right: KENZO Fall/Winter 2013

KENZO Fall/Winter 2013

Left: Robert Longo image and Right: McQ Fall/Winter 2013

Similarly, one of fashion’s ‘go-to’ artists, Robert Longo, is once again invading fashion magazines by way of the McQ campaign (above). In the past, Lanvin showed Longo-inspired images for spring/summer 2010 while the following season the entire Bottega Veneta campaign was shot Longo-style.

Lanvin Spring/Summer 2010

Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2010

In the past, fashion houses have partnered with artists to produce original editorial content. Cindy Sherman is always the premier example of the intersection of art and fashion; take her post card series for Comme des Garçons in 1994 or her Marc Jacobs advertisements in 2006. Rather than a brand using an artist to promote a collaboration between the two creative forces, it is most intriguing when designers seek out artists to highlight their existing products.

Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2007 by Marilyn Minter

Taking this philosophy and looking back at past year’s fashion advertisements, Tom Ford’s fall/winter 2007 campaign by Marilyn Minter immediately comes to mind. The images represented the Tom Ford brand through the eyes of Marilyn Minter – pure genius.

Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2007 by Marilyn Minter

Left: Rene Magritte, The False Mirror, 1928 and Right: Diane Von Furstenberg

Just last year Diane Von Furstenberg showed a series of surrealist ads for spring/summer 2012 with countless references to the work of Salvador Dali and Rene Magritte (above).

All work by Martin Munkacsi

Last but not least, my favorite ode to an artist was Prada’s spring/summer 2001 ad campaign inspired by the amazing Martin Munkacsi (the same man who captured the puddle jumper in 1934, well before Avadon). Munkacsi was famous for his high-energy, identifiable images when, at the time, almost all fashion photographs were being shot on a large format camera inside a studio. His series of beach photographs from the late 1920’s to early 1930’s are still some of his most celebrated to date and served as the inspiration behind Ms.Prada’s spring/summer campaign.

Prada Spring/Summer 2001

Prada Spring/Summer 2001

Prada Spring/Summer 2001

(From Left) Marc Jacobs, Thakoon and Cushnie et Ochs Fall/Winter 2013

Season-after-season there is always a trend so widespread you wonder if the entire fashion world pulled from the same inspiration board. For fall/winter 2013 designers from New York to Paris looked for innovative ways to show fall’s favorite texture – fur. While there are still enough classic animal coats to go around, it looks as though there will also be plenty of fur tops, skirts, dresses, cuffs, gloves, bags and shoes to keep the entire fashion world warm come 2013’s chilly winter months.

Beginning in New York, Marc Jacobs, Thakoon and Cushnie et Ochs (pictured above) all showed looks of monochromatic fur separates while Joseph Altuzarra (pictured below) showed sculptural dresses with fur sleeves and black and white gloves/fur paws.

Altuzarra Fall/Winter 2013

J.W. Anderson Fall/Winter 2013

In London, J.W. Anderson (pictured above) made up for his sleeveless fall tops and short dresses by doing them in elephant grey and black mink.

Moving on to Milan, Miuccia Prada accented her fall jackets for her namesake label (pictured below) with thick fur cuffs in contrasting hues.

Prada Fall/Winter 2013

For Acne’s premier Paris fashion week show, models were accessorized with fur necklace-collars and fur trimmed heels.

Acne Fall/Winter 2013

(From Left) Jean Paul Gaultier and Chloe Fall/Winter 2013

Both Jean Paul Gaultier and Clare Waight Keller for Chloe (pictured above) sent fur skirts in varying lengths down the runway while Phoebe Philo at Céline and Richard Nicoll (who shows in London) explored the concept of a fur dress (pictured below).

(From Left) Céline and Richard Nicoll Fall/Winter 2013

Isabel Marant Fall/Winter 2013

Isabel Marant showed black and cream boots covered in fur and pony hair while Karl Lagerfeld used little to no fur this season at Chanel except for colorful hats in various hues – that bear a striking resemblance to the bright bobs from the fall/winter 2012 Comme Des Garçons show.

Chanel Fall/Winter 2013

Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2013

Marc Jacobs showed his fall/winter collection for Louis Vuitton on the final day of Paris fashion week and kept the season’s hottest trend alive with fur-accented dresses and reinterpretations of classic LV bag – such as the speedy – using fur and muted tones.

Louis Vuitton Accessories Fall/Winter 2013

Giambattista Valli Fall/Winter 2013

While almost every designer this season used fur in some capacity, Giambattista Valli and Consuelo Castiglioni for Marni showed the most fur-accented looks. Along with his collection for Moncler Gamme Rouge, Giambattista used the texture for his own line on everything from dresses, to collars, shoes, bags and belts.

The Marni show was so furry that it was at some points reminiscent of Lagerfeld’s Chanel iceberg collection from fall/winter 2010. Nearly every one of Castiglioni’s 42 runway looks was shown with a furry coat, top, scarf, collar, hem, gloves, purse or boots. Sorry PETA, fall 2013 is not the season for you…

Marni Fall/Winter 2013

The trickiest part of a good season of shows – fall, especially – comes when having to choose a favorite. While I like different collections for different reasons, it was hard to choose one, two, or even three that stood out to me – so I have compiled a top ten list. After much deliberation here are my standout collections for the fall/winter 2013 season and my favorite looks from each show… Enjoy!

Joseph Altuzarra showed one of the most cohesively wearable, yet modern collections of the entire season. His cinched waists, fur sleeves, discrete pops of color and cropped jackets over longer, interior pieces stood out amongst the slew of oversized coats and forgiving cuts many designers showed for fall.

Altuzarra Fall/Winter 2013

Phoebe Philo, the queen of tomboy separates, made this coming winter the season for feminine minimalism. Her past fall collections have been a slew of black, navy and camel but for 2013 the primarily light pallet with few patterns and pops of color was a fresh take on cold weather dressing. I can’t wait to get my hands on a below-the-knee skirt and oversized clutch come fall.

Céline Fall/Winter 2013

When it comes to mixing colors, textures, patterns and prints no one can do it quite like Givenchy’s Ricardo Tisci. For fall, Tisci showed everything from sheer to fur; entirely black leather looks to flowers, plaid and even Bambi, all accompanied by the perfect mid-calf, non-platform skin boot and bright, flower-filled helmet hair.

Givenchy Fall/Winter 2013

Haider Ackermann’s collections are nothing short of perfection but typically look as though they require a team to drape, button, zip, and pull each look to make it appear as it was styled on the runway. For fall 2013 he opted for a few more user-friendly ensembles – like two dream collar-less fur coats and the most simple, sleek black velvet gown in the history of fashion (all pictured below) – giving women hope for a more simple season ahead.

Haider Ackermann Fall/Winter 2013

No one can compete with the house of Hermes when it comes to quality and craftsmanship. While it may have taken former Lacoste creative director, Christophe Lemaire a few seasons to find himself following Gaultier’s departure from the French house, his fall 2013 collection was the epitome of what a chic French woman – or any woman, for that matter – should wear each and every winter.

Hèrmes Fall/Winter 2013

As if Marc’s Olafur Eliasson-inspired show backdrop didn’t shine bright enough, the accompanying looks in his fall/winter 2013 collection were filled with boy shorts, pajama tops, oversized coats and floor-length dresses all made of shimmering fabrics and a never-ending string if sequins. My favorite evening look of the entire season (pictured below, middle) walked in the show and his makeshift-looking animal stoles were such fun amongst the abundance of more serious fall furs.

Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2013

I always love what Nicola Formichetti puts out for Mugler. This season, his soft color pallet and monochromatic, exaggerated skirt suits were futuristic classics in the making.

Mugler Fall/Winter 2013

No single designer can set a season’s trends quite like the brilliant Miuccia Prada. Her modern day Hitchcock show filled with pops of red, rich blues, oversized bags, unexpected fur cuffs and off-the-shoulder necklines epitomize chic for fall 2013.

Prada Fall/Winter 2013

Jack and Lazaro’s fall collection for Proenza Schouler was the perfect downtown meets uptown mix. Their muted color pallet of boyish, oversized separates were made lush by expensive fabrics and textures – leather, ostrich, fur, feathers and chains; their conservative heels will also make for the perfect shoes to run around in come fall.

Proenza Schouler Fall/Winter 2013

I have always been on the fence regarding Rodarte but Fall 2013 has converted me into a major believer. The entire show beginning with the dozens of monochromatic layers to sheer fabrics and colorful patters were made all the better when topped off by their incredible barbed wire accessories.

Rodarte Fall/Winter 2013

In The Clear - Paula Hayes Terrarium
Paula Hayes’ Terrariums

Since returning home to grey weather from sunny Miami I have been longing for greenery and warmth. Looking at artist Paula Hayes’ unbelievable terrariums (pictured above and below) has given me the nature fix I have needed the past few days while adjusting to leaf-less trees and barely-there grass. I have never been a fan of foliage at home but Hayes’ delicately designed terrariums have made me a believer that some plants can prosper indoors.

In The Clear - Paula Hayes Terrarium
Paula Hayes’ Terrariums

On a fashion note, Raf Simons took a cue from Hayes’ botanical art at his ultimate runway show for Jil Sander. Simons adorned his Fall/Winter 2012 runway with forward-thinking floral arrangements contained in glass boxes as opposed to vases (pictured below).

In The Clear - Jil Sander FW 2012
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012

All this talk of glass got me thinking of the abundance of clear materials designers have used for spring. While no one took the Strefano Pilati route sending models down the runway as avant-garde nuns in clear capelets (pictured below), a majority did explore plastic as a material in accessory design.

In The Clear - YSL FW 2010
Yves Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2010

Ricardo Tisci’s runway shoes at Givenchy – now available for pre-order on Luisaviaroma – are part plastic as is Raf Simons’ costume jewelry for Christian Dior and a majority of Charlotte Olympia’s spring clutches (all pictured below).

In The Clear - Givenchy SS 2013
Givenchy Spring/Summer 2013

In The Clear - Christian Dior SS 2013
Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2013

In The Clear - Charlotte Olympia SS 2013
Charlotte Olympia Spring/Summer 2013

Some styles of Nina Ricci’s plastic shoes for spring bear a striking similarity to the sandals I am most excited to wear once the weather becomes warm by Céline (both pictured below).

In The Clear - Nina Ricci SS 2013
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2013

In The Clear - Celine RST 2013
Céline Resort 2013

While the house of Chanel has dabbled in plastic accessories in the past – first in Spring/Summer 2007 and then with Karl’s version of a ‘carryall’ for Fall/Winter 2009 – my favorite transparent endeavors are in the form of a plastic-covered tweed hat and clear LEGO clutch both of which will be in stores this spring (all pictured below).

In The Clear - Chanel SS 2007
Chanel Spring/Summer 2007

In The Clear - Chanel FW 2009
Chanel Fall/Winter 2009

In The Clear - Chanel SS 2013
Chanel Spring/Summer 2013

Lastly, it seems as though Prada’s influence – Prada’s Presence – spans further than the world of ready-to-wear and into accessories. An ode to Miuccia’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection can been seen in the shoes at Michael Kors and the bags at Burberry.

In The Clear - Prada SS 2010
Prada Spring/Summer 2010

In The Clear - Michael Kors SS 2013
Michael Kors Spring/Summer 2013

In The Clear - Prada SS 2010
Prada Spring/Summer 2010

In The Clear - Burberry SS 2013
Burberry Spring/Summer 2013

Art on the Runway - SS 2013 Miu Miu and Adolph Gottlieb
SS 2013 Miu Miu – art by Adolph Gottlieb

Happy 2013 everyone! In honor of the new year I have spent today browsing the past twelve months of fashion shows.

I am gearing up to travel to Paris later this month for my first couture fashion week! I can’t wait to see what the couturiers have in store for 2013 – minus my beloved Givenchy, the only house not showing this season. Until then, here are some of my favorite art-inspired looks to walk the FW 2012 and SS 2013 runways.

Art on the Runway - FW 2012 Comme des Garçons and Andy Warhol
FW 2012 Comme des Garçons – art by Andy Warhol

Art on the Runway - FW 2012 Emilio Pucci and Lucio Fontana
FW 2012 Emilio Pucci – art by Lucio Fontana

Art on the Runway - FW 2012 Fendi and Alberto Burri
FW 2012 Fendi – art by Alberto Burri

Art on the Runway - FW 2012 Givenchy and Richard Artschwager
FW 2012 Givenchy – art by Richard Artschwager (previously seen here)

Art on the Runway - FW 2012 Lanvin and Salvador Dali
FW 2012 Lanvin – art by Salvador Dali (previously seen here)

Art on the Runway - SS 2013 Marc Jacobs and Wade Guyton
SS 2013 Marc Jacobs – art by Wade Guyton

Art on the Runway - SS 2013 Prada and Jacob Hashimoto
SS 2013 Prada – art by Jacob Hashimoto (previously seen here)

Art on the Runway - SS 2013 Céline and Meret Oppenheim
SS 2013 Céline – art by Meret Oppenheim (previously seen here)

Art on the Runway - SS 2013 Proenza Schouler and Jean Paul Riopelle
SS 2013 Proenza Schouler – art by Jean Paul Riopelle

Art on the Runway - SS 2013 Louis Vuitton and Carl Andre
SS 2013 Louis Vuitton – art by Carl Andre

Hanging by a Thread - Superliner
Superliner, Jacob Hashimoto

There is not better way to start a week off than with new art. Artist Jacob Hashimoto works in primarily large-scale installations that explore the intersection of painting and sculpture. His Japanese heritage is apparent in his use of screen painted bamboo and paper kite-like disks. He then compiles these disks onto wires, hanging them in multiple layers on evenly spaced rods. The solid and patterned disks of varying sizes form as a result, one very dense, three-dimensional image. It intrigues me to think about how many new figures would emerge through taking the work apart layer by layer – a bit like for Fall/Winter 2010 when Viktor & Rolf undressed Kristen McMenamy on the runway unveiling an entire collection worn underneath her first look.

The initial Hashimoto piece that captured me was Superliner (pictured above). Through the cluster of patterns and the layering I immediately saw continents on a globe, which reminded me so much Alighiero Boetti embroidered map series (pictured below). It was even more amazing after researching both artists how many similarities I found between their works; sometimes alike shapes, color, or even subject matter

Hanging by a Thread - Boetti
Top: Mappa del Mondo 1988, Boetti; Bottom: Mappa 1989, Boetti

Hanging by a Thread - Boetti and Hashimoto
Left: Legnetti Colorati, 1968, Boetti; Right: Plunk, Hashimoto

Hanging by a Thread - Boetti and Hashimoto
Top: Aerei, 1984, Boetti; Bottom: Infinite Expanse of Sky, Hashimoto

Hanging by a Thread - Boetti and Hashimoto
Left: Faccine Colorate, 1979, Boetti; Right: Hodge Podge, Hashimoto

These next four works (pictured below) are some of my favorites, both because I love the shade of red used and they remind me so much of Spring/Summer 2013 Prada.

Hanging by a Thread - Hashimoto
Velocity of Desire, Jacob Hashimoto

Hanging by a Thread - Hashimoto
From Left: Redshroom and Circumstances and Coincidences, both Jacob Hashimoto

Hanging by a Thread - Prada SS13
Prada Spring/Summer 2013 – From Left: Look 32, Look 30, Look 28, Look 34, and Look 25