Odore di Femmina – Ecto, 2012 (Image courtesy of Galerie Perrotin & Johan Creten. Photograph by Guillaume Ziccarelli)
I was first introduced to the work of sculptor Johan Creten last month when visiting Galerie Perrotin in Paris. Ironically, that same evening I had the pleasure of sitting next to monsieur Creten at the Sidaction Gala. Johan is of Belgium decent but currently resides and works in Paris. His ceramic sculptures have been widely exhibited in major cities and galleries around the world – his show at Perrotin will be up through the 23rd of February. While Johan’s work spans a variety of subject matters, I am particularly drawn to his series of female torsos. Though the torsos themselves are odorless, Johan’s decision to use certain flowers and colors is to allude to a woman’s natural scent.
Odore de Femmina – Strands, 2010 (Images courtesy of Galerie Perrotin & Johan Creten. Photographs by Guillaume Ziccarelli)
Camelia – 2007 (Left) and Torso – Shanghai Gold (Right)
Although Johan’s work resides in a number of Chanel boutiques across the world – such as a sculptures made of white ceramic camellia flowers in Beverly Hills and a rose gold-plated bronze piece in Shanghai (pictured above) – his torso’s remind me so much of the intricate bodices’ of certain Alexander McQueen gowns (pictured below). Johan began constructing his series of flower torsos in the late nineties, preceding McQueen’s work of a similar style, but still fun to compare nonetheless!
Alexander McQueen – ‘Voss’ Spring/Summer 2001
Alexander McQueen – ‘Sarabande’ Spring/Summer 2007
Alexander McQueen – Spring/Summer 2011
Tags: Art, Designers, Fashion Week, Inspiration, Jewelry, Photography, Prada, Retail
Since returning home to grey weather from sunny Miami I have been longing for greenery and warmth. Looking at artist Paula Hayes’ unbelievable terrariums (pictured above and below) has given me the nature fix I have needed the past few days while adjusting to leaf-less trees and barely-there grass. I have never been a fan of foliage at home but Hayes’ delicately designed terrariums have made me a believer that some plants can prosper indoors.
On a fashion note, Raf Simons took a cue from Hayes’ botanical art at his ultimate runway show for Jil Sander. Simons adorned his Fall/Winter 2012 runway with forward-thinking floral arrangements contained in glass boxes as opposed to vases (pictured below).
All this talk of glass got me thinking of the abundance of clear materials designers have used for spring. While no one took the Strefano Pilati route sending models down the runway as avant-garde nuns in clear capelets (pictured below), a majority did explore plastic as a material in accessory design.
Ricardo Tisci’s runway shoes at Givenchy – now available for pre-order on Luisaviaroma – are part plastic as is Raf Simons’ costume jewelry for Christian Dior and a majority of Charlotte Olympia’s spring clutches (all pictured below).
Some styles of Nina Ricci’s plastic shoes for spring bear a striking similarity to the sandals I am most excited to wear once the weather becomes warm by Céline (both pictured below).
While the house of Chanel has dabbled in plastic accessories in the past – first in Spring/Summer 2007 and then with Karl’s version of a ‘carryall’ for Fall/Winter 2009 – my favorite transparent endeavors are in the form of a plastic-covered tweed hat and clear LEGO clutch both of which will be in stores this spring (all pictured below).
Lastly, it seems as though Prada’s influence – Prada’s Presence – spans further than the world of ready-to-wear and into accessories. An ode to Miuccia’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection can been seen in the shoes at Michael Kors and the bags at Burberry.
Merry Chirstmas everyone! I hope your holiday season has been relaxing and filled with fun and family. I have gotten my hands on some amazing new art and fashion books that I am very excited to share. To celebrate Christmas 2012 I have included some of my favorite red and green works from various artists below. Enjoy!
The holiday season is well under way and with Christmas next week this is sure to be a busy weekend for last-minute shoppers. For all those present-procrastinators out these I have put together a list of my favorite gifts I have found to give and receive this holiday season.
1. These Takashi Murakami pillows liven up any room and always put a smile on my face.
2. I am obsessed with Ray Geary’s Pill Studies that can be found at Grey Area in NYC. In a pair they make the perfect bookends.
3. Somehow I never knew that the trademark aroma of Colette, Paris was sold as a candle. Ironically, I discovered this while shopping at The Webster in Miami two weeks ago. I am typically not a candle lover but it is the perfect year-round scent.
4. I find myself lately using two or three small money pouches as opposed to a full size wallet. Comme des Garçons makes my favorite alternative and this new star pattern is at the top of my wish list.
5. KRINK‘s Steele Tip Paint Markets are fun to play around with and perfect to decorate holiday gifts.
6. I love collecting films to watch over my holiday break. This season a few on my list are Ai Weiwei’s Never Sorry, Marina Abromovic’s The Artist is Present, In the Mood for Love and The Cook, The Thief, His Wife & Her Lover.
7. The limited edition Kiehl’s by Kenny Scharf collection is the perfect holiday update of all of my favorite products.
8. I used to love russian dolls as a child and I think these Lanvin ones are the perfect new addition to my collection.
9. As if Eddie Borgo‘s jewelry isn’t already amazing enough, he has outdone himself with his premiere collection of jewelry boxes. They are available online in thirteen different colors and skins, but grey and red croc are my top picks.
10. There is no better time during the year for new books than around the holidays. The Kate Moss book is a must-read as well as Terry Richardson’s Terrywood, and for any art-lover, Taschen’s Art of the 20th Century is a favorite of mine.
11. I am a sucker for patterned scarves, particularly during the cold winter months. Proenza Schouler recently launched a limited edition series of seven patters that are the perfect alternative to my favorite cheetah scarves by Louis Vuitton.
12. I am still obsessing over Olympia Le-Tan’s book-clutches; the pieces in her christmas series are the perfect accessories for the holiday season!
13. I have been longing for a Maison Michel hat or headpiece. Just One Eye has my favorite selection online.
14. Natalia Brilli makes the most amazing leather accessories. I have been eyeing her laptop sleeve and small travel bag.
15. I can’t wait to get my hands on one of these t-shirts or totes from Rop Van Mierlo’s collaboration with Marni. The animal portraits originally come from my favorite picture book by the Dutch illustrator, Wild Animals.
16. These motocycle pants by Belstaff have taken the place of my row leather leggings. They are perfect for any occasion, day or night, during the holidays.
17. Lisa Marie Fernandez bathing suits are my go-to for any vacation. I am obsessed with her black one piece and the collection she did in collaboration with Peter Pilotto.
18. Whose fashion team are you on? Les Plus Dorés t-shirts are the perfect present – I live in my Tisci T – and are now available online at V-Files.
Hew Locke is a British contemporary visual artist whose work spans all mediums. Amongst his sculptures is an ongoing series called House of Windsor that he started in 2002. His use of found objects and shrubbery to depict Queen Elizabeth II’s head takes me back to the first time I saw Jeff Koons’ Topiary Dog seated in front of the Guggenheim museum in Bilbao as a child.
I vaguely recall a fashion spread a few month’s back that used Locke’s How Do You Want Me series (pictured below) as inspiration to showcase the abundance of patterns for Fall.
It is that time again to talk about hair. Although Locke’s art is striking, no one likes their own hair to feel as dry as arid flowers and leaves, which is why Paul Mitchell’s Crunch-Free Curl Definer (pictured below) is a lifesaver come winter. The dual-formula made of hydrating cream and smoothing gel tames hair and banishes frizz. For the final leg of Paul Mitchell’s Truth About Curls Campaign ‘like’ the facebook page here or click to submit your own Curl Confession and the chance to win four must-have products.
Lately, I have been on an old Hollywood kick and most intrigued and inspired by the film The Women. Not only was an all female cast madly innovative for its time – 1939 – however the fashion was some of costume designer Adrian’s best work while at MGM.
The Technicolor fashion show sequence in the film highlights his designs better than any other motion picture. His clothing stood alone, not only giving new life to the characters, however propelling the story forward in a way that fashion is no longer used for in films; proving why to this day Adrian’s role in the history of cinema is unmatched. While his legacy merely lives on through his films, his designs have both stood the test of time and serve as a constant source of inspiration for modern day influencers; in fact, a friend once told me that Azzedine Alaia has the largest privately owned collection of Adrian gowns.
The storyline of The Women was incredibly provocative for the time with three very empowered female leads – Mary, played by Norma Shearer; Sylvia, played by Rosalind Russell; and Crystal, played by Joan Crawford. Each character’s persona reminds me of a different body of work by female photographer, Valérie Belin.
Belin’s soft, somewhat blurry images in Têtes Couronnées 2009 (pictured above) represent Mary. Mary is a member of the wealthy, aristocratic class who looses her husband in an affair.
Sylvia, Mary’s cousin, is an unrelenting gossip and always the instigator. She is a member of the upper class but has two sides to her, just like the double exposure of Belin’s images in Black Eyed Susan 2010 (pictured above). She hides behind a flowery exterior while causing havoc.
Lastly, Crystal is responsible for destruction. She is out of place amidst high society, while her passive, seductive attitude gets her noticed by men and loathed by women. She is the provocative women who every husband wants, like those photographed in Belin’s series Untitled 2007 (pictured above)
It is hard to believe that just one week ago I was home, brushing off the idea of a hurricane affecting downtown Manhattan life. Unfortunately I was sorely mistaken come last Monday evening when power, running water and cell phone reception became things of the past. While I did get through a few old films using the battery life I had hoarded on my laptop, once that disappeared I decided to get lost in, what else, my library of art books. Due to the circumstances, I explored the work of two photographers in particular – Robert Polidori and James Casebere.
Canadian photographer Robert Polidori is best known for his interior and architectural shots. You may recognize his work as he photographed Botegga Venetta’s Fall-Winter 2011/2012 ad campaign featuring Isabeli Fontana at the 16th century Palazzo Papadopoli in Venice, Italy. In 2005, Polidori took a trip down to New Orleans post-Hurricane Katrina to shoot the devastation. His most recent book of work, After The Flood, documents his eerie trip down south (pictured below).
American-born photographer James Casebere has focused his work since the late 1990s on the destructive nature of water. He has captured images of interior flooding in buildings around the world. Don’t the below photographs remind you of Chanel’s flooded runway from Fall/Winter 2010?
I am always awestruck looking back at the hair and makeup in Jean Paul Gaultier runway shows. Between the hair top hats from Fall/Winter 2006 couture or the hair crowns that adorned a few lucky models’ heads walking in Gaultier’s Fall/Winter 2007 couture show, nothing screams couture quite like a custom hat or crown of hair.
Similarly, late Japanese pop artist Nagi Noda was made famous by her hair sculpture hats. The unisex headpieces were most notably featured in her AMAZING Poodle Workout Video and then in multiple collaborations thereafter. Noda’s animal hair hats is her most famous series, including a lion, bear, birds and a dog among many others.
Whether you wear a crown atop your head or are eating a bowl of hair spaghetti Nagi Noda-style, no one likes frizz. Luckily, Paul Mitchell’s Ultimate Wave Gel Cream (pictured below) is here for your hair’s every need. Beachy waves are no longer solely for the summer months but can now be achieved during the driest winter days thanks to a great product. There is nothing better than a head of texture-filled frizz-free hair all year round. Once you use Paul Mitchell’s Ultimate Wave Cream-Gel to achieve summer-like waves sans the beach it is time to go social. Submit a pic of your Curl Confession on facebook HERE or to twitter using the hashtag #curlconfession.
Appropriation is the use of borrowed elements of preexisting objects with little or no transformation to create a new work. It can been found in all forms of art – from a musician sampling an old composition, or a milliner like Philip Treacy creating a new place for a lobster or soda cans atop a woman’s head – but it has been most popularized through the work of visual artists.
One of the first, and most celebrated, examples of appropriation in art came in the early 20th century with Dada artist’s Marcel Duchamp’s series of found, un-altered objects dubbed Readymades. Duchamp’s Readymades were classified into different categories depending on their complexity – Readymades, Assisted Readymades, Rectified Readymades, Corrected Readymades and Reciprocal Readymades. Fountain (pictured below) from 1917 is Duchamp’s most famous gesture of mockery, while a few years later in 1919 came his equally popularized Rectified Readymade, L.H.O.O.Q. (pictured below).
Since Duchamp, hundreds of other artists have utilized appropriation in their work. Andy Warhol capitalized on the iconic Campbell’s Soup Can (pictured above) throughout his career while Damien Hirst is the modern day king of appropriation by way of his work with butterflies and prescription pills (pictured below).
Hurricane Sandy has quarantined me to my apartment, forcing me to be crafty using found objects in my closet. Behold, my ode to appropriation in my new Proenza Schouler Planters (pictured at top), Alaia Trash Can and Chanel Piggy Bank (pictured below).
Tags: Alexander McQueen, Art, Designers, Fashion Week, Inspiration, Photography, Retail
While Georgia O’Keeffe may have pioneered deer-art, so to speak, artists and fashion designers alike have been embracing the woodsy animal for a few seasons now. An ode to deer can be seen on the runways of McQueen dating back to the mid-nineties and have continued through to today – mainly in the world of accessory design. Artists from Japanese sculptor Kohei Nawa and sculptor Sherrie Levine to photographer Ryan McGinley have taken notice and featured the rustic animal in their respective mediums.
I have recently fallen for the work of Ryan McGinley. Although I think his use of color and natural light is what makes his photographs so stunning, there was something about this black and white (pictured below) that captured my attention. Maybe it is the simplicity of the image or the striking resemblance – in the most flattering way – between India and the fawn. Beautiful.
McGinley even cast Bambi to star alongside Sigrid Agren in his F/W 2009 ad campaign for Stella McCartney (pictured below).
Artist Sherrie Levine featured the skulls of two related animals – a steer and an antelope – in her series of skulls cast in bronze, while jewelry designer Aurélie Bidermann accomplished a similar look – for one of my favorite pieces in her collection – using a taurus head.
From Left: Steer Skull, Horned, 2002 by Sherrie Levine – Aurélie Bidermann’s Wild West Taurus Ring – Antelope Skull, 2006 by Sherrie Levine
Alexander McQueen was a longtime patron of deer and antlers. He first paid homage to the animal by way of a Phillip Tracy headpiece in his F/W 1996-97 collection, Dante. Then, for F/W 1997-98, he sent out a horn-blazer in It’s a Jungle Out There and almost ten years later, for F/W 2006-07, one of his most celebrate looks from Widows of Culloden was an entirely lace and ruffle gown complete with a veil held in place by antlers (all pictured below).
My love of deer this season can in large part be attributed to the seven bags below. Proenza Shouler, Lanvin and Alexander Wang all utilized the unique, sometimes spotted fur in their FW 2012 accessory collections. It is hard to choose a favorite although I have had my sights set on the black clutch by Proenza since first spotting furry the beauty in Barneys.
1. Proenza Schouler’s Large Chieko Gazelle Clutch
2. Proenza Schouler’s Large Chieko Deer Clutch
3. Proenza Schouler’s Large Chieko Gazelle Clutch
4. Lanvin’s Patchwork Shearling East/West Folding Bag
5. Alexander Wang’s Pelican Calf Hair Clutch Bag
6. Alexander Wang’s Pelican Natural Deer Hair Clutch Bag
7. Proenza Schouler’s Akira Gazelle Bowler Bag