The color that many recognize as cobalt is known formally in the art community as IKB (International Klein Blue) developed by French painter, Yves Klein. Klein first mixed the color, made up primarily of the blue pigment Ultramarine, at the start of his career and registered the unique shade as IKB in 1960. The color covered everything from sculptures and furniture to women’s bodies – Klein would often paint a female’s torso and lay them directly on his canvases (pictured below). Unfortunately, his time as a working artist was cut feverishly short due to a string of heart attacks in 1962, but nevertheless, his work made enough of a cultural impact in a few short years that the term IKB is still used today.
This season, the spring 2013 runways from New York to Paris saw pops of Klein’s iconic color. Beginning in New York, Joseph Altuzarra showed pieces accented with rich blue fabric while in London, Tom Ford used the same hue for two looks in his women’s presentation as did Antonio Berardi. In Milan, Gucci sent a collection of monochromatic looks down the runway, two of which were head-to-toe IKB. Finally in Paris, designers from Stella McCartney to Hermes and Elie Saab featured the iconic shade in their collections for spring.
Altuzarra – Spring/Summer 2013
Antonio Berardi – Spring/Summer 2013
Hermes – Spring/Summer 2013
Elie Saab – Spring/Summer 2013
The color made such a statement on the runway that Gucci even shot the two monochromatic IKB looks for their spring 2013 ad campaign. No woman can resist Klein.
Season-after-season there is always a trend so widespread you wonder if the entire fashion world pulled from the same inspiration board. For fall/winter 2013 designers from New York to Paris looked for innovative ways to show fall’s favorite texture – fur. While there are still enough classic animal coats to go around, it looks as though there will also be plenty of fur tops, skirts, dresses, cuffs, gloves, bags and shoes to keep the entire fashion world warm come 2013’s chilly winter months.
Beginning in New York, Marc Jacobs, Thakoon and Cushnie et Ochs (pictured above) all showed looks of monochromatic fur separates while Joseph Altuzarra (pictured below) showed sculptural dresses with fur sleeves and black and white gloves/fur paws.
J.W. Anderson Fall/Winter 2013
In London, J.W. Anderson (pictured above) made up for his sleeveless fall tops and short dresses by doing them in elephant grey and black mink.
Moving on to Milan, Miuccia Prada accented her fall jackets for her namesake label (pictured below) with thick fur cuffs in contrasting hues.
Prada Fall/Winter 2013
For Acne’s premier Paris fashion week show, models were accessorized with fur necklace-collars and fur trimmed heels.
Acne Fall/Winter 2013
Both Jean Paul Gaultier and Clare Waight Keller for Chloe (pictured above) sent fur skirts in varying lengths down the runway while Phoebe Philo at Céline and Richard Nicoll (who shows in London) explored the concept of a fur dress (pictured below).
Isabel Marant Fall/Winter 2013
Isabel Marant showed black and cream boots covered in fur and pony hair while Karl Lagerfeld used little to no fur this season at Chanel except for colorful hats in various hues – that bear a striking resemblance to the bright bobs from the fall/winter 2012 Comme Des Garçons show.
Chanel Fall/Winter 2013
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2013
Marc Jacobs showed his fall/winter collection for Louis Vuitton on the final day of Paris fashion week and kept the season’s hottest trend alive with fur-accented dresses and reinterpretations of classic LV bag – such as the speedy – using fur and muted tones.
Louis Vuitton Accessories Fall/Winter 2013
Giambattista Valli Fall/Winter 2013
While almost every designer this season used fur in some capacity, Giambattista Valli and Consuelo Castiglioni for Marni showed the most fur-accented looks. Along with his collection for Moncler Gamme Rouge, Giambattista used the texture for his own line on everything from dresses, to collars, shoes, bags and belts.
The Marni show was so furry that it was at some points reminiscent of Lagerfeld’s Chanel iceberg collection from fall/winter 2010. Nearly every one of Castiglioni’s 42 runway looks was shown with a furry coat, top, scarf, collar, hem, gloves, purse or boots. Sorry PETA, fall 2013 is not the season for you…
Marni Fall/Winter 2013
Tags: Designers, Fashion Week, Inspiration, New York, Paris, Prada, Proenza Schouler, Retail
The trickiest part of a good season of shows – fall, especially – comes when having to choose a favorite. While I like different collections for different reasons, it was hard to choose one, two, or even three that stood out to me – so I have compiled a top ten list. After much deliberation here are my standout collections for the fall/winter 2013 season and my favorite looks from each show… Enjoy!
Joseph Altuzarra showed one of the most cohesively wearable, yet modern collections of the entire season. His cinched waists, fur sleeves, discrete pops of color and cropped jackets over longer, interior pieces stood out amongst the slew of oversized coats and forgiving cuts many designers showed for fall.
Phoebe Philo, the queen of tomboy separates, made this coming winter the season for feminine minimalism. Her past fall collections have been a slew of black, navy and camel but for 2013 the primarily light pallet with few patterns and pops of color was a fresh take on cold weather dressing. I can’t wait to get my hands on a below-the-knee skirt and oversized clutch come fall.
When it comes to mixing colors, textures, patterns and prints no one can do it quite like Givenchy’s Ricardo Tisci. For fall, Tisci showed everything from sheer to fur; entirely black leather looks to flowers, plaid and even Bambi, all accompanied by the perfect mid-calf, non-platform skin boot and bright, flower-filled helmet hair.
Haider Ackermann’s collections are nothing short of perfection but typically look as though they require a team to drape, button, zip, and pull each look to make it appear as it was styled on the runway. For fall 2013 he opted for a few more user-friendly ensembles – like two dream collar-less fur coats and the most simple, sleek black velvet gown in the history of fashion (all pictured below) – giving women hope for a more simple season ahead.
No one can compete with the house of Hermes when it comes to quality and craftsmanship. While it may have taken former Lacoste creative director, Christophe Lemaire a few seasons to find himself following Gaultier’s departure from the French house, his fall 2013 collection was the epitome of what a chic French woman – or any woman, for that matter – should wear each and every winter.
As if Marc’s Olafur Eliasson-inspired show backdrop didn’t shine bright enough, the accompanying looks in his fall/winter 2013 collection were filled with boy shorts, pajama tops, oversized coats and floor-length dresses all made of shimmering fabrics and a never-ending string if sequins. My favorite evening look of the entire season (pictured below, middle) walked in the show and his makeshift-looking animal stoles were such fun amongst the abundance of more serious fall furs.
I always love what Nicola Formichetti puts out for Mugler. This season, his soft color pallet and monochromatic, exaggerated skirt suits were futuristic classics in the making.
No single designer can set a season’s trends quite like the brilliant Miuccia Prada. Her modern day Hitchcock show filled with pops of red, rich blues, oversized bags, unexpected fur cuffs and off-the-shoulder necklines epitomize chic for fall 2013.
Jack and Lazaro’s fall collection for Proenza Schouler was the perfect downtown meets uptown mix. Their muted color pallet of boyish, oversized separates were made lush by expensive fabrics and textures – leather, ostrich, fur, feathers and chains; their conservative heels will also make for the perfect shoes to run around in come fall.
I have always been on the fence regarding Rodarte but Fall 2013 has converted me into a major believer. The entire show beginning with the dozens of monochromatic layers to sheer fabrics and colorful patters were made all the better when topped off by their incredible barbed wire accessories.
Tags: Art, Designers, Fashion Week, Inspiration, New York, Paris, Photography, The Art of...
Before I attempt to address some of the fall/winter 2013 fashions shown over the past month, there was one exciting trend that literally shined brighter – in Marc Jacob’s case – than the clothing on the runway. From Rodarte and Marc in New York, to Christian Dior and Chanel in Paris, fashion designers turned to art as the backdrop for their latest collections.
Kate and Laura’s Fall/Winter 2013 collection for Rodarte was my favorite of their’s to date. In addition to the perfectly layered looks and barbed wire accessories, their runway was scattered with Dan Flavin-esque light sculptures, the ideal compliments to a clean yet edgy show.
Marc Jacobs closed New York fashion week this season at the Lexington Avenue Armory with a groundbreaking collection, per usual, and an even more unbelievable backdrop. Marc took a cue from Danish artist Olafur Eliasson’s 2003 installation, The Weather Project, at London’s Tate Modern. Eliasson took over Turbine Hall at the Tate and installed a radiating yellow sun-like disk. In turn, Marc showed on a round runway amidst a yellow, glowing circular backdrop. The perfect sunset to the New York shows.
For Raf Simons’ second ready-to-wear collection for Christian Dior he drew inspiration from Andy Warhol’s fashion illustrations and devised a setting to compliment the delicately painted runway looks. Simons transformed the show’s backdrop with large shiny spheres similar to the legendary silver clouds that filled Warhol’s ever-famous factory.
To celebrate the 100th anniversary of Coco Chanel’s first boutique and Karl’s 30th year designing for the house, Mr.Lagerfeld went global. The spinning sphere amidst the Grand Palais was covered in Chanel flags, each signifying a modern-day Chanel boutique or retailer. While the globe may not have been directly linked to the work of photographer Andres Gursky, it brought me back to the ocean images in Gursky’s Satellite Series that were shown at Gagosian New York in the fall of 2011.
Alexander Wang Fall/Winter 2013
On Saturday Alexander Wang held his final solo runway show before debuting his premiere collection as creative director of Balenciaga. For fall/winter 2013 he, like many other NY designers who have shown thus far, was feeling for fur, black and grey, and the statement coat. While I loved the runways accessories – furry mittens and asymmetrical heels, in particular – and his venture into unexplored, drop-waist territory, there were classic Alexander Wang shapes that emerged throughout the show and even a few subtle odes to his predecessor at Balenciaga, monsieur Nicolas Ghesquière.
Tags: Art, Collaborations, Designers, Louis Vuitton, New York, Paris, Retail, Street Art
It is hard not to applaud Louis Vuitton for their continuous support of the art world through their never-ending string of collaborations. Despite their mod spring/summer 2013 runway collection, their latest set of partnerships is anything but that. The Parisian house has tapped into the world of street art releasing a limited addition collection of four scarves designed by three graffiti artists – Os Gêmeos, Aiko and RETNA.
Otavio and Gustavo Pandolfo, known as Os Gêmeos, are identical twin brother from São Paulo, Brazil. Their work often features a slew of yellow-skinned characters and in keeping with their signature style (pictured below) the two developed a yellow sun and moon mosaic, signifying equilibrium and balance, for their silk square scarf.
Aiko, a Japanese-born and Brooklyn-based street artist, is known for fusing the old with the new (pictured below). Her scarf features a mix of traditional Japanese icons juxtaposed with contemporary, pop-art elements – one of which being Louis Vuitton’s renowned cheetah print.
RETNA, who has been on the street art scene since the mid-1990s and is based out of California, takes influence from ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics as well as Arabic, Hebrew and Asian calligraphy (pictured below). His cashmere and silk stole, available in two color ways, features his interpretation of the Louis Vuitton motif in his signature style.
It is not the first time RETNA has worked with the fashion house. In October 2012 the artist made his way to Miami to transform the façade of Louis Vuitton’s temporary space in the design district (pictured below).
Louis Vuitton isn’t the only commonality these three artists share. Os Gêmeos, RETNA and Aiko have all had the honor of exhibiting their work on the Bowery Mural Wall located at the corner of Bowery and Houston in New York City – Os Gêmeos in 2009, RETNA in spring 2012 and Aiko just after in July. Currently, the wall is displaying the work of street artists and twin brothers How & Nosm; maybe there will even be a LV scarf of theirs to come!
All four scarves are available through February at select LV stores and online.
This holiday season I have fallen in love with the work of Brooklyn-based artist Mickalene Thomas. Her strong, often embellished-aesthetic seems the perfect fit to celebrate the start of 2013. I have grown to love her collage-inspired paintings and I see so much of Pam Grier circa her Foxy Brown days in Mickalene’s portraits. You may also recognize the background in Din, Une Très Belle Négresse #2 (pictured below, right) from Mickalene’s Nancy Gonzalez bag she customized for the TWOxTWO auction in October; previously featured in Croc for a Cause.
Not only does Ms.Thomas currently have a show running at the Brooklyn Museum, Mickalene Thomas: Origin of the Universe – closing January 20th – but her work is also on display in a two-gallery exhibition at Lehmann Maupin in New York City. Both shows are entitled Mickalene Thomas: How to Organize a Room Around A Striking Piece of Art and will be on view through January 5th. Before I left the city for the holidays I had a gallery day and visited both Lehmann Maupin locations at 540 West 26th Street and 201 Chrystie Street. It was quite a treat to view Ms.Thomas’ portraits and short film in Chelsea and to see her large-scale landscapes and interior scenes at the Lower East Side location.
Mickalene has been getting a tremendous amount of press over the past few months, most recently in the January 2013 Art and Fashion issue of W Magazine. Actress Jessica Chastain models in four art-inspired covers, one of which (pictured above) was inspired by Ms.Thomas’ work. The accompanying spread (pictured below) shows Chastain posing in a setup similar to Thomas’ Untitled Room Installation at Lehmann Maupin’s Chelsea location.
W Magazine styled Chastain in current looks by Versace and Lavin for the Thomas-inspired shoot, but I can’t help but see Louis Vuitton SS10 (pictured above) and Marc Jacobs SS11 (pictured below) when looking at her work. While I did covet Louis Vuitton’s foxtail keychains from SS10 for a short time, Marc’s SS11 collection is still one of my favorites to date. Fingers crossed Mickalene is on Marc’s radar for a future collaboration. My mind goes wild dreaming of what Ms.Thomas could do with free reign of the LV and MJ archives.
Thursday evening marked Bergdorf Goodman’s one-hundred-and-eleventh anniversary soirée. Today, Bergdorf’s is thought of as more than a retail store. When it came to honoring their past 111 years of ruling luxury in New York City, BG chose to celebrate at another iconic New York venue, The Plaza – the same place, in fact, that their fiftieth anniversary party was held sixty one years ago. While a lot has changed since its founding in 1901, The Bergdorf’s institution still lays claim to some of the most valuable real estate in New York City, with iconic windows spanning an entire city block on 5th avenue. The unveiling of their much-anticipated holiday windows is just a few weeks away, but I am hoping their over-the-top fete was an indication of the extravagance that is to come next month. The party was filled with Bergdrof’s friends, family, local and global vendors, models, celebrities, artists and everyone in between. As if my never-ending instagrams were not enough, see some of my additional photos from the perfect night of celebrating fashion!
There is no denying I love a good Prada moment. Whether worn by men, women and children or on mannequins behind glass partitions – a la Impossible Conversations – the genius of Miuccia Prada in the world of ready-to-wear is irrefutable. Through her quirky designs, Ms.Prada has forever changed the industry and has carved out a place for herself in fashion history – having impacted, as a female, how women today dress comparable in magnitude only to Coco Chanel.
Ms.Prada’s presence in fashion each season spans further than the Prada runway in Milan and Miu Miu in Paris. Her designs, past and present, dictate movements in fashion that have greater longevity than, say, “Red is the color for spring”. Her ability to withstand seasonal trends while spotting what the fashion world will be yearning for in a year or two and giving it to them in the present is the trait of a true fashion genius. Just you watch, in a few seasons everyone will be doing fur for spring and silver leather socks with split-toe boots. Regardless of whether designers have caught on to Ms.Prada’s ways, plenty fashion houses looked to past Prada collections for inspiration this season. For Spring/Summer 2013 we saw references through cut, fabric, color and pattern to Prada shows dating back six years. Take a look at a few of my favorites below…
We’re approaching the end of fashion month and while spring ready-to-wear trends have taken shape, one thing is for sure in the world of accessories, SS13 is the season for Donald Judd-inspired footwear. Famed minimalist sculptor Donald Judd’s most celebrated body of work, Stacks (pictured above) uses spare geometric forms to create a unified whole, similar to the cutouts of his boot counterparts. Judd depends on blank space to inhabit the nature of his work just as the boots below rely on the wearer’s foot and leg to maintain appropriate form.
Few designers have attempted a proper gladiator sandal since Mr.Lagerfeld nailed the style in his 2007 Chanel resort collection – a shoe that my mother made clear was entirely inappropriate for a fourteen year old to own yet I yearned for nonetheless. It seems to me that spring/summer 2013 is my season for footwear redemption. In addition to a pair of the boots below all you need is Alexander Wang’s SS13 look 27 and fingers full of Repossi’s Berbère rings to truly do Judd justice.
Acne spring/summer 2013
Alexander Wang spring/summer 2013
Altuzarra spring/summer 2013
Edun spring/summer 2013
Jean Paul Gaultier spring/summer 2013
Narciso Rodriguez spring/summer 2013
Proenza Schouler spring/summer 2013
Rebecca Minkoff spring/summer 2013
Roberto Cavalli spring/summer 2013
Versace spring/summer 2013