Tags: Art, Designers, Fashion Week, Inspiration, Jewelry, Photography, Prada, Retail
Since returning home to grey weather from sunny Miami I have been longing for greenery and warmth. Looking at artist Paula Hayes’ unbelievable terrariums (pictured above and below) has given me the nature fix I have needed the past few days while adjusting to leaf-less trees and barely-there grass. I have never been a fan of foliage at home but Hayes’ delicately designed terrariums have made me a believer that some plants can prosper indoors.
On a fashion note, Raf Simons took a cue from Hayes’ botanical art at his ultimate runway show for Jil Sander. Simons adorned his Fall/Winter 2012 runway with forward-thinking floral arrangements contained in glass boxes as opposed to vases (pictured below).
All this talk of glass got me thinking of the abundance of clear materials designers have used for spring. While no one took the Strefano Pilati route sending models down the runway as avant-garde nuns in clear capelets (pictured below), a majority did explore plastic as a material in accessory design.
Ricardo Tisci’s runway shoes at Givenchy – now available for pre-order on Luisaviaroma – are part plastic as is Raf Simons’ costume jewelry for Christian Dior and a majority of Charlotte Olympia’s spring clutches (all pictured below).
Some styles of Nina Ricci’s plastic shoes for spring bear a striking similarity to the sandals I am most excited to wear once the weather becomes warm by Céline (both pictured below).
While the house of Chanel has dabbled in plastic accessories in the past – first in Spring/Summer 2007 and then with Karl’s version of a ‘carryall’ for Fall/Winter 2009 – my favorite transparent endeavors are in the form of a plastic-covered tweed hat and clear LEGO clutch both of which will be in stores this spring (all pictured below).
Lastly, it seems as though Prada’s influence – Prada’s Presence – spans further than the world of ready-to-wear and into accessories. An ode to Miuccia’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection can been seen in the shoes at Michael Kors and the bags at Burberry.
Atelier Swarovski by Michael Kaplan – Spring/Summer 2011
In keeping with Swarovski’s century-long tradition of couture collaborations, in 2007 the House of Swarovski launched Atelier Swarovski. Atelier Swarovski is a luxury crystal accessories collection that partners with a new set of forward-thinking designers, artists and architects each season to each create a limited edition Atelier Swarovski capsule collection. Each season offers a variety of styles at a range of prices all in keeping with the individual designer’s aesthetic. You can shop the current collection online and see my favorite pieces from the last four seasons above and below.
Renowned costume designer Michael Kaplan is to thank for some of contemporary cinema’s most iconic characters. Kaplan has worked on films such as Blade Runner and Fight Club (both pictured above) among many others, and has partnered with Atelier Swarovski on a capsule jewelry collection. For Spring/Summer 2011 Kaplan turned to science fiction and fantasy for inspiration to create cut crystal and metalwork pieces (pictured above).
Arik Levy for Atelier Swarovski – Autumn/Winter 2011
Designer, artist, architect and filmmaker Arik Levy worked with Atelier Swarovski on a set of pieces for Autumn/Winter 2011. Levy’s multidimensional skill set and artistic style led him to create a ‘RockCrater’ collection that explored the natural world through jewelry with exposed crystal-encrusted interiors.
Atelier Swarovski by Zaldy – Spring/Summer 2012
Famed costume designer Zaldy has worked with the likes of Lady Gaga, Michael Jackson, Mick Jagger and the Scissor Sisters and has designed two collections with Atelier Swarovski. His first, for Spring/Summer 2012, focused on the form of dynamic concave and convex shapes all made of baguette crystals.
Atelier Swarovski by Greg Lynn – Autumn/Winter 2012
Architect Greg Lynn worked with Atelier Swarovski on their most recent set of collaborations for Autumn/Winter 2012. He is celebrated for breaking boundaries through unconventional architectural figures and his debut jewelry collection plays with the idea of old and new, setting clusters of raw stones in smooth, contoured forms.
Atelier Swarovski by Hariri & Hariri – Autumn/Winter 2012
Architects Hariri & Hariri’s sensual modernism aesthetic has been celebrated through their conceptual, residential, commercial and institutional projects but never before through jewelry. Their Parametric Collection for Atelier Swarovski plays with the relationship of nature and technology similar to their architectural designs; you will find countless similar shapes and lines when comparing the two.
Atelier Swarovski by Kostas Murkudis – Autumn/Winter 2012
Designer Kostas Murkudis designs for an edgy, sophisticated woman. For Autumn/Winter 2012 his use of bullet shape settings serves as the perfect contrast to the beautiful colored crystals and beads to offer a hard, feminine feel.
We’re approaching the end of fashion month and while spring ready-to-wear trends have taken shape, one thing is for sure in the world of accessories, SS13 is the season for Donald Judd-inspired footwear. Famed minimalist sculptor Donald Judd’s most celebrated body of work, Stacks (pictured above) uses spare geometric forms to create a unified whole, similar to the cutouts of his boot counterparts. Judd depends on blank space to inhabit the nature of his work just as the boots below rely on the wearer’s foot and leg to maintain appropriate form.
Few designers have attempted a proper gladiator sandal since Mr.Lagerfeld nailed the style in his 2007 Chanel resort collection – a shoe that my mother made clear was entirely inappropriate for a fourteen year old to own yet I yearned for nonetheless. It seems to me that spring/summer 2013 is my season for footwear redemption. In addition to a pair of the boots below all you need is Alexander Wang’s SS13 look 27 and fingers full of Repossi’s Berbère rings to truly do Judd justice.
Acne spring/summer 2013
Alexander Wang spring/summer 2013
Altuzarra spring/summer 2013
Edun spring/summer 2013
Jean Paul Gaultier spring/summer 2013
Narciso Rodriguez spring/summer 2013
Proenza Schouler spring/summer 2013
Rebecca Minkoff spring/summer 2013
Roberto Cavalli spring/summer 2013
Versace spring/summer 2013
As you may have seen from this week’s tweets, I made the unfortunate mistake of leaving my laptop in East Hampton while I spent the week in the city. Being without a computer for the past few days has freed time for activities – like watching movies – that are usually compromised to allow for my massive internet browsing habit. I decided on two films that I think historically have had the greatest influence on fashion, Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner and Luis Bruñel and Salvador Dalí’s short film Un Chien Andalou.
Blade Runner has served as inspiration to designers for years, but the character Pris‘ makeup is unquestionably the most replicated aspect of the film. Fashion has seen this trademark black line over the eyes on both men and women every season and FW12 was no exception.
The Balenciaga runway, along with countless others, have been invaded by sic-fi-inspired looks for seasons now. Ghesquière used Blade Runner as a reference most notably in his collections for FW 2007 and FW 2012, pictured below.
The opening of Impossible Conversations and the relaunch of the House of Schiaparelli have brought surrealism back to the forefront of fashion. I watched Bruñel and Dalí’s short film Un Chien Andalou this week and got totally inspired. His use of the human face and bugs, while at times gruesome, was equally exciting. His influence outside of the art community was apparent in the days of the surrealists and still holds true today.
Elsa Schiaparelli was the first to commission Dalí to design jewelry. His fascination with nature and humanistic features, as exhibited in his film, was later incorporated into his designs (pictured below). Who knew Dalií was the originator of grillz?
Season after season designers have turned to Dalí and other surrealists for inspiration. It was particularly evident at both the Ready-to-Wear and FW12 Couture shows. Giambattista Valli adorned his models in gold branch necklaces and butterflies while Alber turned Dalí’s delicate pieces into statement costume jewelry at Lanvin.
My all-time favorite example of surrealism invading the runway was a product of the always offbeat Rei Kawakubo. Her use of lips as an accessory to the face in addition to the model’s own was striking.
Comme des Garçons FW09 over a Damien Hirst butterfly background.
Eddie Borgo’s geometric jewelry designs have always reminded me of the work of one of my favorite artists, Olafur Eliasson. For Spring 2012 Visionaire co-founder, Cecelia Dean, was the perfect choice to model a collection that epitomizes the intersection of art and fashion; Borgo cited the work of Robert Mapplethorpe as a primary source of inspiration during his design process. The spring campaign video that launched in early February on EddieBorgo.com and on Style.com brought back such fond memories from the Eliasson exhibition in 2008 at MoMA entitled Take Your Time. Eliasson uses severe shapes and colors to engage and captivate the viewer. Borgo’s short film used these techniques to produce an equally beautiful and mesmerizing effect.
The holiday season is upon us and although Black Friday wasn’t a great success this year – why do no good retailers follow tradition anymore?? – I still spotted a few items that belong on everyone’s holiday list.
2. I love receiving great fashion and art books to add to my collection. This holiday season, Carine Roitfeld’s irreverent is on the top of my list.
3. Along with my main wallet I always carry around a Commes des Garçons Small Pouch. It is perfect for holding immediate cash and cards or to throw in an evening bag… And they come in such fun patters and colors!
5. Proenza Schouler knows how to do accessories better than anyone. The medium size PS1 in pony hair is the perfect day to night bag for winter time.
6. Tom Ford Beauty just launched in time for the holidays at Bergdorf Goodman. He’s been teasing us for a few seasons with lipsticks and such but his entire collection has everything a beauty lover needs. I love his skincare, but my favorites pieces to start with are the Lip Colors and Ultra Shine Glosses.
9. Everyone needs something to commemorate Gaga’s Workshop at Barneys New York. The toys, specifically this Little Monster Set, are my favorite of the exclusive items.
In honor of Target’s newest wave of collaborations Vogue hosted a small tea last Thursday with the three designers; milliner Albertus Swanepoel, jewelry designer Dana Kellin and women’s designer Josie Natori. The three collections hit Target stores on October 30th and will be available until late December… Assuming everything isn’t sold out by then!
Dana Kellin’s collection for Target consists of earrings and necklaces with stones in two different color ways; warm pinks and purples, and colder blues and greens. The pieces are all under $50 and perfect for layering, take a look…
Lastly, Josie Natori’s 30 piece collection is so colorful and incredibly lush. The sleepwear and lingerie will be available in two shipments, one on October 30th and the second before Valentines Day… So yummy!
Since the launch of The Coveteur earlier this year I have followed the site closely. Never before did I realize how oddly fascinated I am seeing inside someone’s closet. Besides, a person’s wardrobe says a lot about them, particularly their staples. Every new post makes me think of what I would include if asked what some of my most important pieces are. Below are a few pictures of my favorites, modeled by the newest addition to my bedroom, my Chanel doll, who, we appropriately refer to as Minnie Muse.
Minnie Muse is a beauty. Ever since I first saw her sitting on Grace Coddington’s desk in The September Issue I have been in love. Her official name is Brick Bear and she is part of a limited edition collection done by Chanel a few years ago. They made these dolls to send out as gifts and were never for purchase. She is number 618 in the series and was a graduation gift from my mom a few weeks ago. A big thank you to our friends at Chanel!
Leather jackets are my weakness. This top one was a limited edition piece by 3.1 Phillip Lim made for Fashion’s Night Out 2009 and the bottom one is a classic Rick Owens. The orange gloves are by Chanel and are one of my favorite accessories. My mom wants me to have Karl sign them but I still want to wear them more!
These are some of my favorite shoes for summer. The two heels are Azzedine Alaia –hard go wrong with Alaia- the sneakers are Ann Demeulemeester -great for walking around the city- platforms are by Celine -perfect for any summer look- and the cheetah sandals are by Givenchy -essential for daytime.
No matter what time of year it is I wear scarves. During the summer I especially love them over a bathing suit or on a chilly night. These Stephen Sprouse leopard print pieces by Louis Vuitton are my favorite. They drape so well and come in the best colors.
If you can’t make it to the Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibition before August 7th this book is the next best thing. As seen in my previous posts with Andrew Bolton, it is a catalogue of the exhibition with looks from his first show at Saint Martins to his final collection from Fall 2010.
The PS1 by Proenza Schouler continues to be my favorite bag each season. Black was the first one I purchased from their premier bag collection. It is made out of the original leather which is much more relaxed, while the current bags are made from a stiffer leather and have much more structure. I can’t wait to use the white clutch this summer and the tobacco colored keep all come Fall.
Jewelry can complete any look. I love statement necklaces -like this one by Tom Binns- and the various bracelets -by Peppercotton, Eddie Borgo and Tiffany. I don’t have my ears pierced so I make up for no earrings with rings. My fingers feel too bare without them.
I thought I would take a quick break from my Andrew Bolton interview segments to share with you one of my favorite pieces from Paris. Not only is Eddie Borgo an incredible jewelry designer but he is also a very close friend. This past March he brought his Fall 2011 collection with him to Paris Fashion Week and had a great space to showcase all of his amazing new pieces. Eddie was nice enough to have me over to take a look at his newest collection and even discussed where his inspiration came from for these naturalistic jewels. Take a look below at what he had to say…
Here are some pics of Eddie’s Parisian showroom…
This series was my favorite of the collection… It’s the absolute perfect red, no??
If I had my ears pierced you wouldn’t be able to get these green tassels off of me!…
At the Gaultier show in Paris my mom and I had the pleasure of sitting next to a woman named Chantal Rousseau, who I soon learned is the Operating Vice President of Bloomingdales Europe. She shared so many interesting stories in the hour we were waiting together for the show to start. As is usual when taking fashion with my mom, the conversation soon turned to discussing Gaultier’s former employer, Hermés. Very few other brands have such incredible standards for their clothing and accessories. It never occurred to me how many bags, shoes, scarves, jewelry… never make it to retail on account of the pieces not reaching the appropriate level of excellence one would expect from the House. Chantal shared with us that Hermés recently unveiled a capsule collection at their store in Paris entitled ‘ h ‘ (Small H). This line is dedicated to reusing materials from items that never made it to stores to produce something new using fabric that would have otherwise been disposed of. While no ‘ h ‘ items remain in the boutique at this time, Chantal happened to have three necklaces in her purse that she had brought to show her colleagues. As seen below, they were fashioned from old scarves. While the line is a lesser price point, it is clear that Hermés didn’t neglect their renowned quality, shown by the craftsmanship and a small circular piece of imprinted caramel leather serving as the tag on each item.