Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2013

Before I attempt to address some of the fall/winter 2013 fashions shown over the past month, there was one exciting trend that literally shined brighter – in Marc Jacob’s case – than the clothing on the runway. From Rodarte and Marc in New York, to Christian Dior and Chanel in Paris, fashion designers turned to art as the backdrop for their latest collections.

Kate and Laura’s Fall/Winter 2013 collection for Rodarte was my favorite of their’s to date. In addition to the perfectly layered looks and barbed wire accessories, their runway was scattered with Dan Flavin-esque light sculptures, the ideal compliments to a clean yet edgy show.

Rodarte Fall/Winter 2013

Dan Flavin

Marc Jacobs closed New York fashion week this season at the Lexington Avenue Armory with a groundbreaking collection, per usual, and an even more unbelievable backdrop. Marc took a cue from Danish artist Olafur Eliasson’s 2003 installation, The Weather Project, at London’s Tate Modern. Eliasson took over Turbine Hall at the Tate and installed a radiating yellow sun-like disk. In turn, Marc showed on a round runway amidst a yellow, glowing circular backdrop. The perfect sunset to the New York shows.

Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2013

Olafur Eliasson

For Raf Simons’ second ready-to-wear collection for Christian Dior he drew inspiration from Andy Warhol’s fashion illustrations and devised a setting to compliment the delicately painted runway looks. Simons transformed the show’s backdrop with large shiny spheres similar to the legendary silver clouds that filled Warhol’s ever-famous factory.

Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2013

Andy Warhol’s Factory

To celebrate the 100th anniversary of Coco Chanel’s first boutique and Karl’s 30th year designing for the house, Mr.Lagerfeld went global. The spinning sphere amidst the Grand Palais was covered in Chanel flags, each signifying a modern-day Chanel boutique or retailer. While the globe may not have been directly linked to the work of photographer Andres Gursky, it brought me back to the ocean images in Gursky’s Satellite Series that were shown at Gagosian New York in the fall of 2011.

Chanel Fall/Winter 2013

Andres Gursky

Andres Gursky

Ghesquière for Alexander Wang - Alexander Wang
Alexander Wang Fall/Winter 2013

On Saturday Alexander Wang held his final solo runway show before debuting his premiere collection as creative director of Balenciaga. For fall/winter 2013 he, like many other NY designers who have shown thus far, was feeling for fur, black and grey, and the statement coat. While I loved the runways accessories – furry mittens and asymmetrical heels, in particular – and his venture into unexplored, drop-waist territory, there were classic Alexander Wang shapes that emerged throughout the show and even a few subtle odes to his predecessor at Balenciaga, monsieur Nicolas Ghesquière.

Ghesquière for Alexander Wang - Fall/Winter 2008 Balenciaga
Alexander Wang Fall/Winter 2013 – Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2008

Ghesquière for Alexander Wang - Fall/Winter 2008 Balenciaga
Alexander Wang Fall/Winter 2013 – Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2008

Ghesquière for Alexander Wang - Fall/Winter 2009 Balenciaga
Alexander Wang Fall/Winter 2013 – Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2009

Ghesquière for Alexander Wang - Fall/Winter 2010 Balenciaga
Alexander Wang Fall/Winter 2013 – Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2010

Ghesquière for Alexander Wang - Fall/Winter 2012 Balenciaga
Alexander Wang Fall/Winter 2013 – Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2012

I Spy Mike Kelley
Memory Ware Flats by Mike Kelley

I was recently introduced to the series, Memory Ware Flats by the late artist Mike Kelley. Kelley’s installations – which were frequently compromised of stuffed animals and other toys – often, feel very whimsical in nature. This particular body of work, which he began in 2000, reminds me so much of one of my favorite books as a child, I Spy. The series is about re-examination and re-use of everyday objects that people otherwise cast aside. Each ‘paining’ is comprised of tiny household trinkets that come together to make a larger overall statement. From a far the canvas may not look like much, but as you get closer more intricacies begin to appear, much like the tiny dots that make up Seurat’s masterpiece, A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte.

This idea is very similar in nature to the art of couture. If I learned anything from attending last week’s shows it is that pictures do little justice. Just when a dress appears to be a print, up close you find that rather than fabric the entire look is made up of individual sequins. Or, as was the case at Valentino, there could be tiny butterflies stitched beneath layers upon layers of tulle. In both art and fashion work comes along that is so intricate where just when you think you have seen everything in a piece, you find something new and exciting to explore.

I Spy Mike Kelley
Memory Ware Flats by Mike Kelley

I Spy Mike Kelley
Memory Ware Flats by Mike Kelley

I Spy Mike Kelley
Memory Ware Flats by Mike Kelley

In The Clear - Paula Hayes Terrarium
Paula Hayes’ Terrariums

Since returning home to grey weather from sunny Miami I have been longing for greenery and warmth. Looking at artist Paula Hayes’ unbelievable terrariums (pictured above and below) has given me the nature fix I have needed the past few days while adjusting to leaf-less trees and barely-there grass. I have never been a fan of foliage at home but Hayes’ delicately designed terrariums have made me a believer that some plants can prosper indoors.

In The Clear - Paula Hayes Terrarium
Paula Hayes’ Terrariums

On a fashion note, Raf Simons took a cue from Hayes’ botanical art at his ultimate runway show for Jil Sander. Simons adorned his Fall/Winter 2012 runway with forward-thinking floral arrangements contained in glass boxes as opposed to vases (pictured below).

In The Clear - Jil Sander FW 2012
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012

All this talk of glass got me thinking of the abundance of clear materials designers have used for spring. While no one took the Strefano Pilati route sending models down the runway as avant-garde nuns in clear capelets (pictured below), a majority did explore plastic as a material in accessory design.

In The Clear - YSL FW 2010
Yves Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2010

Ricardo Tisci’s runway shoes at Givenchy – now available for pre-order on Luisaviaroma – are part plastic as is Raf Simons’ costume jewelry for Christian Dior and a majority of Charlotte Olympia’s spring clutches (all pictured below).

In The Clear - Givenchy SS 2013
Givenchy Spring/Summer 2013

In The Clear - Christian Dior SS 2013
Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2013

In The Clear - Charlotte Olympia SS 2013
Charlotte Olympia Spring/Summer 2013

Some styles of Nina Ricci’s plastic shoes for spring bear a striking similarity to the sandals I am most excited to wear once the weather becomes warm by Céline (both pictured below).

In The Clear - Nina Ricci SS 2013
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2013

In The Clear - Celine RST 2013
Céline Resort 2013

While the house of Chanel has dabbled in plastic accessories in the past – first in Spring/Summer 2007 and then with Karl’s version of a ‘carryall’ for Fall/Winter 2009 – my favorite transparent endeavors are in the form of a plastic-covered tweed hat and clear LEGO clutch both of which will be in stores this spring (all pictured below).

In The Clear - Chanel SS 2007
Chanel Spring/Summer 2007

In The Clear - Chanel FW 2009
Chanel Fall/Winter 2009

In The Clear - Chanel SS 2013
Chanel Spring/Summer 2013

Lastly, it seems as though Prada’s influence – Prada’s Presence – spans further than the world of ready-to-wear and into accessories. An ode to Miuccia’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection can been seen in the shoes at Michael Kors and the bags at Burberry.

In The Clear - Prada SS 2010
Prada Spring/Summer 2010

In The Clear - Michael Kors SS 2013
Michael Kors Spring/Summer 2013

In The Clear - Prada SS 2010
Prada Spring/Summer 2010

In The Clear - Burberry SS 2013
Burberry Spring/Summer 2013

Art on the Runway - SS 2013 Miu Miu and Adolph Gottlieb
SS 2013 Miu Miu – art by Adolph Gottlieb

Happy 2013 everyone! In honor of the new year I have spent today browsing the past twelve months of fashion shows.

I am gearing up to travel to Paris later this month for my first couture fashion week! I can’t wait to see what the couturiers have in store for 2013 – minus my beloved Givenchy, the only house not showing this season. Until then, here are some of my favorite art-inspired looks to walk the FW 2012 and SS 2013 runways.

Art on the Runway - FW 2012 Comme des Garçons and Andy Warhol
FW 2012 Comme des Garçons – art by Andy Warhol

Art on the Runway - FW 2012 Emilio Pucci and Lucio Fontana
FW 2012 Emilio Pucci – art by Lucio Fontana

Art on the Runway - FW 2012 Fendi and Alberto Burri
FW 2012 Fendi – art by Alberto Burri

Art on the Runway - FW 2012 Givenchy and Richard Artschwager
FW 2012 Givenchy – art by Richard Artschwager (previously seen here)

Art on the Runway - FW 2012 Lanvin and Salvador Dali
FW 2012 Lanvin – art by Salvador Dali (previously seen here)

Art on the Runway - SS 2013 Marc Jacobs and Wade Guyton
SS 2013 Marc Jacobs – art by Wade Guyton

Art on the Runway - SS 2013 Prada and Jacob Hashimoto
SS 2013 Prada – art by Jacob Hashimoto (previously seen here)

Art on the Runway - SS 2013 Céline and Meret Oppenheim
SS 2013 Céline – art by Meret Oppenheim (previously seen here)

Art on the Runway - SS 2013 Proenza Schouler and Jean Paul Riopelle
SS 2013 Proenza Schouler – art by Jean Paul Riopelle

Art on the Runway - SS 2013 Louis Vuitton and Carl Andre
SS 2013 Louis Vuitton – art by Carl Andre

Hanging by a Thread - Superliner
Superliner, Jacob Hashimoto

There is not better way to start a week off than with new art. Artist Jacob Hashimoto works in primarily large-scale installations that explore the intersection of painting and sculpture. His Japanese heritage is apparent in his use of screen painted bamboo and paper kite-like disks. He then compiles these disks onto wires, hanging them in multiple layers on evenly spaced rods. The solid and patterned disks of varying sizes form as a result, one very dense, three-dimensional image. It intrigues me to think about how many new figures would emerge through taking the work apart layer by layer – a bit like for Fall/Winter 2010 when Viktor & Rolf undressed Kristen McMenamy on the runway unveiling an entire collection worn underneath her first look.

The initial Hashimoto piece that captured me was Superliner (pictured above). Through the cluster of patterns and the layering I immediately saw continents on a globe, which reminded me so much Alighiero Boetti embroidered map series (pictured below). It was even more amazing after researching both artists how many similarities I found between their works; sometimes alike shapes, color, or even subject matter

Hanging by a Thread - Boetti
Top: Mappa del Mondo 1988, Boetti; Bottom: Mappa 1989, Boetti

Hanging by a Thread - Boetti and Hashimoto
Left: Legnetti Colorati, 1968, Boetti; Right: Plunk, Hashimoto

Hanging by a Thread - Boetti and Hashimoto
Top: Aerei, 1984, Boetti; Bottom: Infinite Expanse of Sky, Hashimoto

Hanging by a Thread - Boetti and Hashimoto
Left: Faccine Colorate, 1979, Boetti; Right: Hodge Podge, Hashimoto

These next four works (pictured below) are some of my favorites, both because I love the shade of red used and they remind me so much of Spring/Summer 2013 Prada.

Hanging by a Thread - Hashimoto
Velocity of Desire, Jacob Hashimoto

Hanging by a Thread - Hashimoto
From Left: Redshroom and Circumstances and Coincidences, both Jacob Hashimoto

Hanging by a Thread - Prada SS13
Prada Spring/Summer 2013 – From Left: Look 32, Look 30, Look 28, Look 34, and Look 25

Oh Deer - Georgia O's keeffe, Kohei Kawa
Summer days, 1936, Georgia O’Keeffe – PixCell Deer #24, 2011, Kohei Nawa

While Georgia O’Keeffe may have pioneered deer-art, so to speak, artists and fashion designers alike have been embracing the woodsy animal for a few seasons now. An ode to deer can be seen on the runways of McQueen dating back to the mid-nineties and have continued through to today – mainly in the world of accessory design. Artists from Japanese sculptor Kohei Nawa and sculptor Sherrie Levine to photographer Ryan McGinley have taken notice and featured the rustic animal in their respective mediums.

I have recently fallen for the work of Ryan McGinley. Although I think his use of color and natural light is what makes his photographs so stunning, there was something about this black and white (pictured below) that captured my attention. Maybe it is the simplicity of the image or the striking resemblance – in the most flattering way – between India and the fawn. Beautiful.

Oh Deer - Ryan McGinley, India (Deer)
India (Deer) 2010, Ryan McGinley

McGinley even cast Bambi to star alongside Sigrid Agren in his F/W 2009 ad campaign for Stella McCartney (pictured below).

Oh Deer - Ryan McGinley for Stella McCartney FW 2009
Stella McCartney F/W 2009 Campaign shot by Ryan McGinley

Artist Sherrie Levine featured the skulls of two related animals – a steer and an antelope – in her series of skulls cast in bronze, while jewelry designer Aurélie Bidermann accomplished a similar look – for one of my favorite pieces in her collection – using a taurus head.

Oh Deer - Sherrie Levine, Aurélie Bidermann
From Left: Steer Skull, Horned, 2002 by Sherrie Levine – Aurélie Bidermann’s Wild West Taurus Ring – Antelope Skull, 2006 by Sherrie Levine

Alexander McQueen was a longtime patron of deer and antlers. He first paid homage to the animal by way of a Phillip Tracy headpiece in his F/W 1996-97 collection, Dante. Then, for F/W 1997-98, he sent out a horn-blazer in It’s a Jungle Out There and almost ten years later, for F/W 2006-07, one of his most celebrate looks from Widows of Culloden was an entirely lace and ruffle gown complete with a veil held in place by antlers (all pictured below).

Oh Deer - Alexander McQueen
From Left: Dante, F/W 1996-07 – It’s a Jungle Out There, F/W 1997-98 – Widows of Culloden, F/W 2006-07

My love of deer this season can in large part be attributed to the seven bags below. Proenza Shouler, Lanvin and Alexander Wang all utilized the unique, sometimes spotted fur in their FW 2012 accessory collections. It is hard to choose a favorite although I have had my sights set on the black clutch by Proenza since first spotting furry the beauty in Barneys.

Oh Deer - Deer Accessories

1. Proenza Schouler’s Large Chieko Gazelle Clutch
2. Proenza Schouler’s Large Chieko Deer Clutch
3. Proenza Schouler’s Large Chieko Gazelle Clutch
4. Lanvin’s Patchwork Shearling East/West Folding Bag
5. Alexander Wang’s Pelican Calf Hair Clutch Bag
6. Alexander Wang’s Pelican Natural Deer Hair Clutch Bag
7. Proenza Schouler’s Akira Gazelle Bowler Bag

Prada's Presence: Prada SS07 - Burberry Prorsum SS13
Prada SS07Burberry Prorsum SS13

There is no denying I love a good Prada moment. Whether worn by men, women and children or on mannequins behind glass partitions – a la Impossible Conversations – the genius of Miuccia Prada in the world of ready-to-wear is irrefutable. Through her quirky designs, Ms.Prada has forever changed the industry and has carved out a place for herself in fashion history – having impacted, as a female, how women today dress comparable in magnitude only to Coco Chanel.

Ms.Prada’s presence in fashion each season spans further than the Prada runway in Milan and Miu Miu in Paris. Her designs, past and present, dictate movements in fashion that have greater longevity than, say, “Red is the color for spring”. Her ability to withstand seasonal trends while spotting what the fashion world will be yearning for in a year or two and giving it to them in the present is the trait of a true fashion genius. Just you watch, in a few seasons everyone will be doing fur for spring and silver leather socks with split-toe boots. Regardless of whether designers have caught on to Ms.Prada’s ways, plenty fashion houses looked to past Prada collections for inspiration this season. For Spring/Summer 2013 we saw references through cut, fabric, color and pattern to Prada shows dating back six years. Take a look at a few of my favorites below…

Prada's Presence: Prada SS07 - Derek Lam SS13
Prada SS07Derek Lam SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada FW07 - Missoni SS13
Prada FW07Missoni SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada FW07 - Marni SS13
Prada FW07Marni SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada FW07 - Marni SS13
Prada SS08Marni SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada FW08 - Balenciaga SS13
Prada FW08Balenciaga SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada SS09 - Preen SS13
Prada SS09Preen SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada SS09 - Simone Rocha SS13
Prada SS09Simone Rocha SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada SS09 - J.W. Anderson SS13
Prada SS09J.W. Anderson SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada SS10 - Proenza Schouler SS13
Prada SS10Proenza Schouler SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada SS10 - Simone Rocha SS13
Prada SS10Simone Rocha SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada FW11 - Thakoon SS13
Prada FW11Thakoon SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada FW11 - Moschino SS13
Prada FW11Moschino SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada SS12 - Erdem SS13
Prada SS12Erdem SS13

The Art of... Fur and Wood - Object by Méret Oppenheim
Object, 1936 by Meret Oppenheim

I didn’t think there was any bit of surrealism left to reference in fashion, but leave it to Phoebe Philo to explore yet another fresh idea, fur heels – which have hardly been attempted since Elsa Schiaparelli’s 1938 Monkey Boots. Though reviews have been mixed regarding Philo’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection for Céline, I went gaga over her runway accessories because they are so clearly inspired by German-born, surrealist artist, Méret Oppenheim. Oppenheim’s most celebrated work, Object (pictured above) – consisting of a fur-lined teacup, saucer and spoon – is a sculpture from 1936 that now belongs to the Museum of Modern Art in New York City.

The Art of... Fur and Wood - Celine SS13 Runway Heels
Céline SS13 Runway Heels

Whether you love or hate of the $4,000+ mink heels (pictured above) or sandals (pictured below), there is no denying that they have been the most talked about shoes to walk down any SS13 runway. The act of using a fur-lined utensil is an ode to excess and somewhat sexual like a woman’s high-heel, yet so grotesque, similar to the thought of those amazing shoes ever encountering the sidewalk, or – gasp – a nasty puddle amidst the rainy months of spring.

The Art of... Fur and Wood - Celine SS13 Runway Flats
Céline SS13 Runway Sandals

The Art of... Fur and Wood - Celine SS13 Runway Heels
Céline SS13 Runway Heels

The surrealist-inspiration didn’t stop at fur shoes, Philo also sent out red toenail-pumps with wooden heels (pictured above) that had to have been inspired by Oppenheim’s Fur Gloves With Wooden Fingers (pictured below), also from 1936. Yes, I know what you’re thinking, “But what about those toenail loafers Comme des Garçons launched just a few season’s back?” Those are yet another genius creation to come from the mind of Kooky-Kawakubo rather than a direct reference to Oppenehim’s Fur Gloves. But I like where your head is.

The Art of... Fur and Wood - Fur Gloves with Wooden Fingers by Méret Oppenheim
Fur Gloves With Wooden Fingers, 1936 by Meret Oppenheim

Philo is no stranger to wood. Some of my favorite looks to date from her time at Céline have been the three wooden ensembles she showed for Fall/Winter 2011 (pictured below)

The Art of... Fur and Wood - Celine FW11
Céline Fall/Winter 2011

Similarly, Kate and Laura Mulleavy also explored wooden fabrics for their Spring/Summer 2011 Rodarte collection.

Spring/Summer 2011

On the topic of wood – and in keeping with the theme of German artists – I am so excited to final share these pieces by Nina Fischer & Maroan el Sani (pictured below). I discovered the duos’ work this past May at the Hamburger Bahnhof museum during my trip to Berlin and I have been waiting for the perfect opportunity to post them. I think their use of wood as opposed to canvas is innovative – to the extent of fur as opposed to leather – as refreshing. I love the simplicity of their etchings against the natural texture of the backdrop. Simply beautiful.

The Art of... Fur and Wood - Work by Nina Fischer and Maroan el Sani
Work by Nina Fischer & Maroan el Sani

The Art of... Fur and Wood - Work by Nina Fischer and Maroan el Sani
Work by Nina Fischer & Maroan el Sani

The Art of... Fur and Wood - Work by Nina Fischer and Maroan el Sani
Work by Nina Fischer & Maroan el Sani

The Art of... Fur and Wood - Work by Nina Fischer and Maroan el Sani
Work by Nina Fischer & Maroan el Sani

Stack Attack - Donald Judd Stacks
Various Stacks by Donald Judd Untitled Stack by Donald Judd

We’re approaching the end of fashion month and while spring ready-to-wear trends have taken shape, one thing is for sure in the world of accessories, SS13 is the season for Donald Judd-inspired footwear. Famed minimalist sculptor Donald Judd’s most celebrated body of work, Stacks (pictured above) uses spare geometric forms to create a unified whole, similar to the cutouts of his boot counterparts. Judd depends on blank space to inhabit the nature of his work just as the boots below rely on the wearer’s foot and leg to maintain appropriate form.

Few designers have attempted a proper gladiator sandal since Mr.Lagerfeld nailed the style in his 2007 Chanel resort collection – a shoe that my mother made clear was entirely inappropriate for a fourteen year old to own yet I yearned for nonetheless. It seems to me that spring/summer 2013 is my season for footwear redemption. In addition to a pair of the boots below all you need is Alexander Wang’s SS13 look 27 and fingers full of Repossi’s Berbère rings to truly do Judd justice.

Stack Attack - SS13 Acne
Acne spring/summer 2013

Stack Attack - SS13 Alexander Wang
Alexander Wang spring/summer 2013

Stack Attack - SS13 Altuzarra
Altuzarra spring/summer 2013

Stack Attack - SS13 Edun
Edun spring/summer 2013

Stack Attack - SS13 Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier spring/summer 2013

Stack Attack - SS13 Narciso Rodriguez
Narciso Rodriguez spring/summer 2013

Stack Attack - SS13 Proenza Schouler
Proenza Schouler spring/summer 2013

Stack Attack - SS13 Rebecca Minkoff
Rebecca Minkoff spring/summer 2013

Stack Attack - SS13 Roberto Cavalli
Roberto Cavalli spring/summer 2013

Stack Attack - SS13 Versace
Versace spring/summer 2013