Tags: Art, Couture, Designers, Fall/Winter 2013, Fashion Week, Paris, Photography, Vogue
Collectively, both the fashion and art worlds are about the new and the next. When artists and designers show work that is considered groundbreaking by modern day standards, the question is, is it truly something that either industry hasn’t seen before? Looking at the most recent Paris collections from a beauty standpoint, the hair at Givenchy (pictured below) immediately caught my eye. The helmet-like ringlets compressed to the models’ heads and then spray-painted was a fresh take on beauty that could only be the product of an innovative mind like Ricardo Tisci. As I took a closer look at the backstage shots, the hair began looking more and more like dried, shriveled up flowers. Seeing, instead, a bouquet atop each head took me back to the golden age of magazine covers.
Right around the time of the Second World War and during the heyday of Surrealism, Salavdor Dali was accepted as a great talent not only in the art community but the fashion world. In addition to his close relationship with designer Elsa Schiaparelli and his collection of surrealist jewels (previously featured here), he guest edited a few, select issues of Vogue. His art appeared on covers, including the June 1939 issue (above, left), which depicts a woman jumping rope in the background and a girl sitting with a flower bouquet for a head in the foreground.
Fast-forward to the iconic Louise Dahl Wolfe photograph of Ivy Nicholson on the April 1958 cover of Harper’s Bazaar (above, center) featuring Nicholson with a flower-like helmet. This image was clearly inspired by Dali’s cover and subsequently influenced countless fashion photographs in the later years; most recently, Elle Fanning’s cover of New York Magazine’s Spring 2013 fashion issue, photographed by Will Cotton (above, right).
Givenchy Fall/Winter 2013
In addition to the photograph’s influence on Givenchy’s fall show, these same flower-like ringlets also made their way onto the McQueen runway, under Sarah Burton’s ornate crowns (pictured below).
This wasn’t, however, the first time the celebrated Dahl-Wolfe photo has been referenced, who could forget John Galliano’s floral-inspired penultimate couture collection for Christian Dior. For fall/winter 2010 Galliano sent floral looks down the runway, accompanied by petal-inspired hairpieces (pictured below), a subtle ode to Dahl-Wolfe.
Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2010 Couture
Similarly, in Karl Lagerfeld’s spring/summer 2009 Chanel couture show (previously referenced here, pictured below), models wore paper flowers atop their heads, morphing from delicate tiaras into floral hats and a flower helmet – worn by Feja, Karl’s bride for the season, in place of a veil.
Lastly, milliner Philip Treacy took a cue from Dahl-Wolfe and created a floral helmet (pictured below), which was most recently worn by Lady Gaga (for a bit of pop culture).
Season-after-season there is always a trend so widespread you wonder if the entire fashion world pulled from the same inspiration board. For fall/winter 2013 designers from New York to Paris looked for innovative ways to show fall’s favorite texture – fur. While there are still enough classic animal coats to go around, it looks as though there will also be plenty of fur tops, skirts, dresses, cuffs, gloves, bags and shoes to keep the entire fashion world warm come 2013’s chilly winter months.
Beginning in New York, Marc Jacobs, Thakoon and Cushnie et Ochs (pictured above) all showed looks of monochromatic fur separates while Joseph Altuzarra (pictured below) showed sculptural dresses with fur sleeves and black and white gloves/fur paws.
J.W. Anderson Fall/Winter 2013
In London, J.W. Anderson (pictured above) made up for his sleeveless fall tops and short dresses by doing them in elephant grey and black mink.
Moving on to Milan, Miuccia Prada accented her fall jackets for her namesake label (pictured below) with thick fur cuffs in contrasting hues.
Prada Fall/Winter 2013
For Acne’s premier Paris fashion week show, models were accessorized with fur necklace-collars and fur trimmed heels.
Acne Fall/Winter 2013
Both Jean Paul Gaultier and Clare Waight Keller for Chloe (pictured above) sent fur skirts in varying lengths down the runway while Phoebe Philo at Céline and Richard Nicoll (who shows in London) explored the concept of a fur dress (pictured below).
Isabel Marant Fall/Winter 2013
Isabel Marant showed black and cream boots covered in fur and pony hair while Karl Lagerfeld used little to no fur this season at Chanel except for colorful hats in various hues – that bear a striking resemblance to the bright bobs from the fall/winter 2012 Comme Des Garçons show.
Chanel Fall/Winter 2013
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2013
Marc Jacobs showed his fall/winter collection for Louis Vuitton on the final day of Paris fashion week and kept the season’s hottest trend alive with fur-accented dresses and reinterpretations of classic LV bag – such as the speedy – using fur and muted tones.
Louis Vuitton Accessories Fall/Winter 2013
Giambattista Valli Fall/Winter 2013
While almost every designer this season used fur in some capacity, Giambattista Valli and Consuelo Castiglioni for Marni showed the most fur-accented looks. Along with his collection for Moncler Gamme Rouge, Giambattista used the texture for his own line on everything from dresses, to collars, shoes, bags and belts.
The Marni show was so furry that it was at some points reminiscent of Lagerfeld’s Chanel iceberg collection from fall/winter 2010. Nearly every one of Castiglioni’s 42 runway looks was shown with a furry coat, top, scarf, collar, hem, gloves, purse or boots. Sorry PETA, fall 2013 is not the season for you…
Marni Fall/Winter 2013