Appropriation - Proenza Planters
Proenza Schouler Planters, 2012

Appropriation is the use of borrowed elements of preexisting objects with little or no transformation to create a new work. It can been found in all forms of art – from a musician sampling an old composition, or a milliner like Philip Treacy creating a new place for a lobster or soda cans atop a woman’s head – but it has been most popularized through the work of visual artists.

One of the first, and most celebrated, examples of appropriation in art came in the early 20th century with Dada artist’s Marcel Duchamp’s series of found, un-altered objects dubbed Readymades. Duchamp’s Readymades were classified into different categories depending on their complexity – Readymades, Assisted Readymades, Rectified Readymades, Corrected Readymades and Reciprocal Readymades. Fountain (pictured below) from 1917 is Duchamp’s most famous gesture of mockery, while a few years later in 1919 came his equally popularized Rectified Readymade, L.H.O.O.Q. (pictured below).

Appropriation - Duchamp Readymades
From Left: Fountain, 1917 and L.H.O.O.Q., 1919, both works by Marcel Duchamp

Appropriation - Warhol Campbell's Soup Can
Campbell’s Soup Cans, 1962 by Andy Warhol

Since Duchamp, hundreds of other artists have utilized appropriation in their work. Andy Warhol capitalized on the iconic Campbell’s Soup Can (pictured above) throughout his career while Damien Hirst is the modern day king of appropriation by way of his work with butterflies and prescription pills (pictured below).

Appropriation - Hirst Pills
Lullaby, the Seasons Spring, 2002 by Damien Hirst

Hurricane Sandy has quarantined me to my apartment, forcing me to be crafty using found objects in my closet. Behold, my ode to appropriation in my new Proenza Schouler Planters (pictured at top), Alaia Trash Can and Chanel Piggy Bank (pictured below).

Appropriation - Alaia Trash Can
Alaia Trash Can, 2012

Appropriation - Chanel Piggy Bank
Chanel Piggy Bank, 2012

Oh Deer - Georgia O's keeffe, Kohei Kawa
Summer days, 1936, Georgia O’Keeffe – PixCell Deer #24, 2011, Kohei Nawa

While Georgia O’Keeffe may have pioneered deer-art, so to speak, artists and fashion designers alike have been embracing the woodsy animal for a few seasons now. An ode to deer can be seen on the runways of McQueen dating back to the mid-nineties and have continued through to today – mainly in the world of accessory design. Artists from Japanese sculptor Kohei Nawa and sculptor Sherrie Levine to photographer Ryan McGinley have taken notice and featured the rustic animal in their respective mediums.

I have recently fallen for the work of Ryan McGinley. Although I think his use of color and natural light is what makes his photographs so stunning, there was something about this black and white (pictured below) that captured my attention. Maybe it is the simplicity of the image or the striking resemblance – in the most flattering way – between India and the fawn. Beautiful.

Oh Deer - Ryan McGinley, India (Deer)
India (Deer) 2010, Ryan McGinley

McGinley even cast Bambi to star alongside Sigrid Agren in his F/W 2009 ad campaign for Stella McCartney (pictured below).

Oh Deer - Ryan McGinley for Stella McCartney FW 2009
Stella McCartney F/W 2009 Campaign shot by Ryan McGinley

Artist Sherrie Levine featured the skulls of two related animals – a steer and an antelope – in her series of skulls cast in bronze, while jewelry designer Aurélie Bidermann accomplished a similar look – for one of my favorite pieces in her collection – using a taurus head.

Oh Deer - Sherrie Levine, Aurélie Bidermann
From Left: Steer Skull, Horned, 2002 by Sherrie Levine – Aurélie Bidermann’s Wild West Taurus Ring – Antelope Skull, 2006 by Sherrie Levine

Alexander McQueen was a longtime patron of deer and antlers. He first paid homage to the animal by way of a Phillip Tracy headpiece in his F/W 1996-97 collection, Dante. Then, for F/W 1997-98, he sent out a horn-blazer in It’s a Jungle Out There and almost ten years later, for F/W 2006-07, one of his most celebrate looks from Widows of Culloden was an entirely lace and ruffle gown complete with a veil held in place by antlers (all pictured below).

Oh Deer - Alexander McQueen
From Left: Dante, F/W 1996-07 – It’s a Jungle Out There, F/W 1997-98 – Widows of Culloden, F/W 2006-07

My love of deer this season can in large part be attributed to the seven bags below. Proenza Shouler, Lanvin and Alexander Wang all utilized the unique, sometimes spotted fur in their FW 2012 accessory collections. It is hard to choose a favorite although I have had my sights set on the black clutch by Proenza since first spotting furry the beauty in Barneys.

Oh Deer - Deer Accessories

1. Proenza Schouler’s Large Chieko Gazelle Clutch
2. Proenza Schouler’s Large Chieko Deer Clutch
3. Proenza Schouler’s Large Chieko Gazelle Clutch
4. Lanvin’s Patchwork Shearling East/West Folding Bag
5. Alexander Wang’s Pelican Calf Hair Clutch Bag
6. Alexander Wang’s Pelican Natural Deer Hair Clutch Bag
7. Proenza Schouler’s Akira Gazelle Bowler Bag

Atmosphere

Thursday evening marked Bergdorf Goodman’s one-hundred-and-eleventh anniversary soirée. Today, Bergdorf’s is thought of as more than a retail store. When it came to honoring their past 111 years of ruling luxury in New York City, BG chose to celebrate at another iconic New York venue, The Plaza – the same place, in fact, that their fiftieth anniversary party was held sixty one years ago. While a lot has changed since its founding in 1901, The Bergdorf’s institution still lays claim to some of the most valuable real estate in New York City, with iconic windows spanning an entire city block on 5th avenue. The unveiling of their much-anticipated holiday windows is just a few weeks away, but I am hoping their over-the-top fete was an indication of the extravagance that is to come next month. The party was filled with Bergdrof’s friends, family, local and global vendors, models, celebrities, artists and everyone in between. As if my never-ending instagrams were not enough, see some of my additional photos from the perfect night of celebrating fashion!

With Linda Fargo and Michael Kors

With the amazing Andres Serrano

Bergdorf's Bash
View from the top…

Bergdorf's Bash
Iconic Iris

Bergdorf's Bash
With Olivier

Bergdorf's Bash
Coco Rocha capturing Zac and Olivier

Bergdorf's Bash
With Thakoon

Bergdorf's Bash
Peter Dundas and Rita Ora

Bergdorf's Bash
With Eddie

Bergdorf's Bash
Atmosphere

Bergdorf's Bash
Keegan and Giovanna

Bergdorf's Bash
Cake time…

Bergdorf's Bash
Desserts and Dancing

Bergdorf's Bash
With Giovanna, Keegan and Eddie

Bergdorf's Bash
A Carsten Holler-esque blue crocodile

Bergdorf's Bash

Bergdorf's Bash
Any great party ends with a ripped dress…

Prada's Presence: Prada SS07 - Burberry Prorsum SS13
Prada SS07Burberry Prorsum SS13

There is no denying I love a good Prada moment. Whether worn by men, women and children or on mannequins behind glass partitions – a la Impossible Conversations – the genius of Miuccia Prada in the world of ready-to-wear is irrefutable. Through her quirky designs, Ms.Prada has forever changed the industry and has carved out a place for herself in fashion history – having impacted, as a female, how women today dress comparable in magnitude only to Coco Chanel.

Ms.Prada’s presence in fashion each season spans further than the Prada runway in Milan and Miu Miu in Paris. Her designs, past and present, dictate movements in fashion that have greater longevity than, say, “Red is the color for spring”. Her ability to withstand seasonal trends while spotting what the fashion world will be yearning for in a year or two and giving it to them in the present is the trait of a true fashion genius. Just you watch, in a few seasons everyone will be doing fur for spring and silver leather socks with split-toe boots. Regardless of whether designers have caught on to Ms.Prada’s ways, plenty fashion houses looked to past Prada collections for inspiration this season. For Spring/Summer 2013 we saw references through cut, fabric, color and pattern to Prada shows dating back six years. Take a look at a few of my favorites below…

Prada's Presence: Prada SS07 - Derek Lam SS13
Prada SS07Derek Lam SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada FW07 - Missoni SS13
Prada FW07Missoni SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada FW07 - Marni SS13
Prada FW07Marni SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada FW07 - Marni SS13
Prada SS08Marni SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada FW08 - Balenciaga SS13
Prada FW08Balenciaga SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada SS09 - Preen SS13
Prada SS09Preen SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada SS09 - Simone Rocha SS13
Prada SS09Simone Rocha SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada SS09 - J.W. Anderson SS13
Prada SS09J.W. Anderson SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada SS10 - Proenza Schouler SS13
Prada SS10Proenza Schouler SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada SS10 - Simone Rocha SS13
Prada SS10Simone Rocha SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada FW11 - Thakoon SS13
Prada FW11Thakoon SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada FW11 - Moschino SS13
Prada FW11Moschino SS13

Prada's Presence: Prada SS12 - Erdem SS13
Prada SS12Erdem SS13

Olympia Cubed
From left: Olympia Le-Tan, Olympia Scarry (in Givenchy couture) and Charlotte Olympia

It is hard to talk art and fashion and not mention one of the three Olympia’s above. Each has captured a niche in their specific field that has changed the industry over the past few seasons.

Few pieces are higher on my wish list right now than an Olympia Le-Tan book clutch (pictured below). The designer launched her namesake accessories label in 2009 combining her love for literature and embroidery. There are too many amazing options to choose from but the pieces are produced in such limited quantity the problem is tracking one down.

Olympia Cubed - Olympia Le-Tan
Clutches by Olympia Le-Tan

Charlotte Olympia, AKA Charlotte Dellal, is the queen of footwear. Her designs (pictured below) whether printed or solid, heels or flats are always whimsical in nature and have been embraced by the fashion elite.

Olympia Cubed - Charlotte Olympia
Shoes by Charlotte Olympia

This past September the two British-born accessory queens partnered together for a limited edition Charlotte’s Web-inspired collaboration. The footwear designer created a collection of pumps to go with Le-Tan’s embroidered clutch version of the book (pictured below).

Olympia Cubed - Charlotte Olympia and Olympia Le-Tan
Heels by Charlotte Olympia, clutch by Olympia Le-Tan

The fashion and art worlds alike seem to be enamored by Swiss artist, Olympia Scarry. Scarry primarily works in large-scale sculptures, photographs and performance art and the occasional fashion piece – such as a project with the House of Dior (pictured below) which was part of a traveling exhibition that opened in Shanghai in 2011.

Olympia Cubed - Olympia Scarry

A few more works by Olympia Scarry…

Olympia Cubed - Olympia Scarry
Lara Stone, 2008 by Olympia Scarry

Olympia Cubed - Olympia Scarry
The White Feather Room ‘Kinder Heaven’ instillation, 2009 by Olympia Scarry

Olympia Cubed - Olympia Scarry
The White Feather Room ‘Kinder Heaven’ instillation, 2009 by Olympia Scarry

The Art of... Fur and Wood - Object by Méret Oppenheim
Object, 1936 by Meret Oppenheim

I didn’t think there was any bit of surrealism left to reference in fashion, but leave it to Phoebe Philo to explore yet another fresh idea, fur heels – which have hardly been attempted since Elsa Schiaparelli’s 1938 Monkey Boots. Though reviews have been mixed regarding Philo’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection for Céline, I went gaga over her runway accessories because they are so clearly inspired by German-born, surrealist artist, Méret Oppenheim. Oppenheim’s most celebrated work, Object (pictured above) – consisting of a fur-lined teacup, saucer and spoon – is a sculpture from 1936 that now belongs to the Museum of Modern Art in New York City.

The Art of... Fur and Wood - Celine SS13 Runway Heels
Céline SS13 Runway Heels

Whether you love or hate of the $4,000+ mink heels (pictured above) or sandals (pictured below), there is no denying that they have been the most talked about shoes to walk down any SS13 runway. The act of using a fur-lined utensil is an ode to excess and somewhat sexual like a woman’s high-heel, yet so grotesque, similar to the thought of those amazing shoes ever encountering the sidewalk, or – gasp – a nasty puddle amidst the rainy months of spring.

The Art of... Fur and Wood - Celine SS13 Runway Flats
Céline SS13 Runway Sandals

The Art of... Fur and Wood - Celine SS13 Runway Heels
Céline SS13 Runway Heels

The surrealist-inspiration didn’t stop at fur shoes, Philo also sent out red toenail-pumps with wooden heels (pictured above) that had to have been inspired by Oppenheim’s Fur Gloves With Wooden Fingers (pictured below), also from 1936. Yes, I know what you’re thinking, “But what about those toenail loafers Comme des Garçons launched just a few season’s back?” Those are yet another genius creation to come from the mind of Kooky-Kawakubo rather than a direct reference to Oppenehim’s Fur Gloves. But I like where your head is.

The Art of... Fur and Wood - Fur Gloves with Wooden Fingers by Méret Oppenheim
Fur Gloves With Wooden Fingers, 1936 by Meret Oppenheim

Philo is no stranger to wood. Some of my favorite looks to date from her time at Céline have been the three wooden ensembles she showed for Fall/Winter 2011 (pictured below)

The Art of... Fur and Wood - Celine FW11
Céline Fall/Winter 2011

Similarly, Kate and Laura Mulleavy also explored wooden fabrics for their Spring/Summer 2011 Rodarte collection.

Spring/Summer 2011

On the topic of wood – and in keeping with the theme of German artists – I am so excited to final share these pieces by Nina Fischer & Maroan el Sani (pictured below). I discovered the duos’ work this past May at the Hamburger Bahnhof museum during my trip to Berlin and I have been waiting for the perfect opportunity to post them. I think their use of wood as opposed to canvas is innovative – to the extent of fur as opposed to leather – as refreshing. I love the simplicity of their etchings against the natural texture of the backdrop. Simply beautiful.

The Art of... Fur and Wood - Work by Nina Fischer and Maroan el Sani
Work by Nina Fischer & Maroan el Sani

The Art of... Fur and Wood - Work by Nina Fischer and Maroan el Sani
Work by Nina Fischer & Maroan el Sani

The Art of... Fur and Wood - Work by Nina Fischer and Maroan el Sani
Work by Nina Fischer & Maroan el Sani

The Art of... Fur and Wood - Work by Nina Fischer and Maroan el Sani
Work by Nina Fischer & Maroan el Sani

Atelier Swarovski - Michael Kaplan SS11
Atelier Swarovski by Michael KaplanSpring/Summer 2011

In keeping with Swarovski’s century-long tradition of couture collaborations, in 2007 the House of Swarovski launched Atelier Swarovski. Atelier Swarovski is a luxury crystal accessories collection that partners with a new set of forward-thinking designers, artists and architects each season to each create a limited edition Atelier Swarovski capsule collection. Each season offers a variety of styles at a range of prices all in keeping with the individual designer’s aesthetic. You can shop the current collection online and see my favorite pieces from the last four seasons above and below.

Renowned costume designer Michael Kaplan is to thank for some of contemporary cinema’s most iconic characters. Kaplan has worked on films such as Blade Runner and Fight Club (both pictured above) among many others, and has partnered with Atelier Swarovski on a capsule jewelry collection. For Spring/Summer 2011 Kaplan turned to science fiction and fantasy for inspiration to create cut crystal and metalwork pieces (pictured above).

Atelier Swarovski - Arik Levy AW11
Arik Levy for Atelier SwarovskiAutumn/Winter 2011

Designer, artist, architect and filmmaker Arik Levy worked with Atelier Swarovski on a set of pieces for Autumn/Winter 2011. Levy’s multidimensional skill set and artistic style led him to create a ‘RockCrater’ collection that explored the natural world through jewelry with exposed crystal-encrusted interiors.

Atelier Swarovski - Zaldy SS12
Atelier Swarovski by ZaldySpring/Summer 2012

Famed costume designer Zaldy has worked with the likes of Lady Gaga, Michael Jackson, Mick Jagger and the Scissor Sisters and has designed two collections with Atelier Swarovski. His first, for Spring/Summer 2012, focused on the form of dynamic concave and convex shapes all made of baguette crystals.

Atelier Swarovski - Greg Lynn AW12
Atelier Swarovski by Greg LynnAutumn/Winter 2012

Architect Greg Lynn worked with Atelier Swarovski on their most recent set of collaborations for Autumn/Winter 2012. He is celebrated for breaking boundaries through unconventional architectural figures and his debut jewelry collection plays with the idea of old and new, setting clusters of raw stones in smooth, contoured forms.

Atelier Swarovski - Hariri and Hariri AW12
Atelier Swarovski by Hariri & HaririAutumn/Winter 2012

Architects Hariri & Hariri’s sensual modernism aesthetic has been celebrated through their conceptual, residential, commercial and institutional projects but never before through jewelry. Their Parametric Collection for Atelier Swarovski plays with the relationship of nature and technology similar to their architectural designs; you will find countless similar shapes and lines when comparing the two.

Atelier Swarovski - Kostas Murkudis AW12
Atelier Swarovski by Kostas MurkudisAutumn/Winter 2012

Designer Kostas Murkudis designs for an edgy, sophisticated woman. For Autumn/Winter 2012 his use of bullet shape settings serves as the perfect contrast to the beautiful colored crystals and beads to offer a hard, feminine feel.

Stack Attack - Donald Judd Stacks
Various Stacks by Donald Judd Untitled Stack by Donald Judd

We’re approaching the end of fashion month and while spring ready-to-wear trends have taken shape, one thing is for sure in the world of accessories, SS13 is the season for Donald Judd-inspired footwear. Famed minimalist sculptor Donald Judd’s most celebrated body of work, Stacks (pictured above) uses spare geometric forms to create a unified whole, similar to the cutouts of his boot counterparts. Judd depends on blank space to inhabit the nature of his work just as the boots below rely on the wearer’s foot and leg to maintain appropriate form.

Few designers have attempted a proper gladiator sandal since Mr.Lagerfeld nailed the style in his 2007 Chanel resort collection – a shoe that my mother made clear was entirely inappropriate for a fourteen year old to own yet I yearned for nonetheless. It seems to me that spring/summer 2013 is my season for footwear redemption. In addition to a pair of the boots below all you need is Alexander Wang’s SS13 look 27 and fingers full of Repossi’s Berbère rings to truly do Judd justice.

Stack Attack - SS13 Acne
Acne spring/summer 2013

Stack Attack - SS13 Alexander Wang
Alexander Wang spring/summer 2013

Stack Attack - SS13 Altuzarra
Altuzarra spring/summer 2013

Stack Attack - SS13 Edun
Edun spring/summer 2013

Stack Attack - SS13 Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier spring/summer 2013

Stack Attack - SS13 Narciso Rodriguez
Narciso Rodriguez spring/summer 2013

Stack Attack - SS13 Proenza Schouler
Proenza Schouler spring/summer 2013

Stack Attack - SS13 Rebecca Minkoff
Rebecca Minkoff spring/summer 2013

Stack Attack - SS13 Roberto Cavalli
Roberto Cavalli spring/summer 2013

Stack Attack - SS13 Versace
Versace spring/summer 2013